男士应对不同类型工作面试的穿衣指南
Yesterday, we laid out the reasons why what you wear to a job interview is very important. We also debunked a common myth: a formal business suit is not always the right outfit for an interview. It often is, and if you really have nothing else to go on it’s probably your safest default, but be aware that overdressing can cost you a job just as easily as underdressing. A guy who shows up to interview for an hourly wage job at a garage in a suit and tie doesn’t look like someone who understands the culture of that workplace or who’s going to stick around for long — he’s clearly got his mind on bigger and better positions.
之前我们介绍过面试时的穿着打扮非常重要。我们也指正了一个常见的谬论：正式的商务套装在面试场合并不总是合适的。如果你实在不知道该穿什么，那么商务套装似乎是一个可容许的错误，但是你得明白穿地过于正式与穿着随意一样，很可能会让你失去获得一份工作的机会。如果一个人要应聘车库的小时工，但是他却穿着套装、系着领带参加面试，很可能他并不了解这类工作的文化或者他并不打算停留太久——显然他中意更大更好的岗位。
Below we walk you through not only the overarching rule to keep in mind when deciding what to wear for a job interview, but also the five categories of dress codes to know, the specific clothes to wear for each code to take you up a notch.
接下来我们将介绍一个最核心的准则，当你决定要在面试中如何穿着打扮时，你应该牢记这个规则。另外，我们还会介绍5种穿衣规范，每种规范下应该如何具体地穿衣，让你在形象上更上一层楼。
The “One Step Higher” Rule“多走一步”原则
Your best rule for interview clothing is this: dress one significant level of formality higher than you would for a day on the job.
面试穿着最好的准则即为：比你日常从事这份工作时的着装更正式一些。
In shorthand, that’s the “One Step Higher” rule. It means that if on a normal day you’d be wearing khakis and a dress shirt but no tie, you should show up at the interview in slacks, a blazer, and a shirt with a tie, but not a suit. If you’d be wearing jeans and a polo at the job, wear khakis and a tie but no jacket. And so on.
简而言之，就是“多走一步”原则。如果平常你会穿条卡其裤、衬衫但是不系领带，那么面试的时候，你可以穿休闲裤、休闲的西装、衬衫并系好领带，但是没必要穿套装。但是如果平常工作你就穿着牛仔裤和polo衫，那么面试就只需要穿卡其裤和系领带，并不需要再加一件夹克，以此类推。
但是有人马上就得反驳了，第一次面试人家的工作，该怎么知道别人平常工作是如何穿着打扮的呢？如果不知道这些，我们又怎么在这个基础上“多走一步”？接下来小编就给大家支几个招：Inside Information: Ask someone who works there. It’s also possible in some cases to e-mail the supervisor you’d be working for and say “I’m thrilled I got the interview — what would you recommend I wear?” or words to that effect. Internal recommendations of any kind are the best cues you’re going to get, so if you’ve got a source, use it.
内部消息：询问在那里工作的人。在某些情况下，你也可以给未来的主管发送电子邮件表达“我很高兴能够进行面试——能麻烦您推荐一下面试时我该怎样穿着才合适呢？”或者类似的话。任何类型的内部建议都是你可以获得的最佳暗示，所以如果你有这样的资源，请一定要好好把握。
Make a Visit: If you don’t have a source on the inside, and you don’t want to ask, take a trip to the office and see for yourself. If you get there at the start or end of the workday you should be able to see plenty of people coming or going in their daily uniforms.
参观公司：如果这家公司并没有你认识的人，而且你也不想咨询别人，那么你可以亲自去办公室看看。如果在上下班的时间去那儿，你应该能够看到员工们穿着日常的工作服装来来往往。
Online Snooping: Some companies have an active presence on the web, and you’ll be able to do some sleuthing to determine what folks who work there are generally wearing. Either on a website, or some social media account, you may be able to find a behind-the-scenes or work party pic. Use those as a rough guide for the general office dress code.
网上查询：一些公司在网站上有很大的曝光度，那么你就能够私下查找这些图片，看看在那工作的人们一般都是如何打扮的。不管是在网站上，还是在一些社交账号上，你可能会找到一些幕后的或者工作小组的照片。利用这些，基本就能作为你穿衣的指导了。
Educated Guessing: In the case of a distant company where you don’t know anyone, you don’t have a lot of good options. The best you can do is determine the general standards of your industry and err on the side of the highest standards. In each of the following sections we talk about how to dress to each standard, but we’ll also start with a list of industries where that particular standard is common. It’s not 100% foolproof, but you can usually make assumptions along the lines of “wear a suit to interview for a job at a bank,” or “don’t wear a tie to interview for a hands-on job at a ranch.”
职业猜测：如果这个公司离你较远，那儿并没有你的熟人，你也就没有太多的选择了。这种情况下最好的办法就是根据行业里一般的标准来穿衣甚至宁可按最高的标准进行准备。在接下来的部分我们会介绍每个标准要求的穿着打扮，我们也会列出平常哪些行业会对应要求这些标准。这些并非百分百正确，但是你总是能明白“应聘银行职员应该穿西装”或者“去牧场面试不应该系领带”这样简单的道理。
Levels of Formality: The Five Categories for Interviews正式程度：5种面试类型 Strict Business Dress 严格的商务着装
Business Dress 商务正装
Business Casual 商务便装
Casual 日常休闲
Work Clothes 工作服 接下来让我们仔细了解一下每种类型。
The Strict Business Dress Interview
严格的商务着装 When You Should Interview in Strict Business Dress
应该穿“严格的商务着装”的面试场合
If you’re interviewing for a job that requires you to wear a business suit every day, the only way to dress more formally for the interview is to wear a business suit really well, with perfectly executed details. Typically you dress this sharply when you’re applying in industries that already have high standards of presentation, like:
如果你面试的工作要求你每天都得穿套装，那么唯一让你在面试时显得正式的方式就是穿一套在细节上都非常讲究的西装。尤其是你应聘的行业对形象本就有很高的要求，比如：
Prominent law firms 出色的律师事务所Most banking and financial positions 大多数银行和金融职位
Executive roles 行政人员
High-level political positions 高级政治职位
Elements of Strict Business Dress
“严格的商务着装”搭配
There’s no room for error when you’re trying to impress a well-dressed employer. Stick to the conservative interpretation of business clothing:
如果你想要让穿着讲究的雇主对你印象深刻，那么你在穿衣服这件事就不该犯什么错。所以请严格按照传统的商务风格来打扮。
The Suit: Worsted wool in either dark navy blue or dark charcoal gray with no patterning. Tailored fit, if possible; if you can’t afford custom clothing at least have your ready-to-wear suit adjusted for your measurements by a tailor.
西服套装：精仿羊毛面料，无花纹，色彩一般较素，深色居多，如深蓝色、深灰色。可以的话，一定要裁剪合身；如果你负担不起定制的西服，那么至少让裁缝师傅帮忙把你现有的衣服改成适合自己的尺寸。
The Shirt: Plain white with a spread or point (not button-down) collar. Sharp collar points (use stays or starch or both), smooth front, no wrinkles.
衬衫：纯白色，宽领或尖领（不要纽扣领），使用领撑或者浆粉让衣领保持笔挺，衣服前面要熨烫平整。
The Shoes: Plain black oxford balmorals, well-shined. Socks should match the color of the trouser leg, i.e. charcoal gray socks with a charcoal gray suit.
鞋子：纯黑色的牛津鞋，鞋面光亮，袜子应该与裤腿的颜色相匹配，即炭灰色袜子配炭灰色西装。
The Necktie: Conservative color and pattern – nothing bright or eye-catching. Long enough that the tip touches the belt/trouser waist, with no shirt showing in between, even when moving. Centered, symmetrical knot with a small dimple in the tie just below it.
领带：保守的颜色和图案——不应该太亮或吸引人注意，领带要足够长，底端能碰到腰带或裤腰，即使在移动时也不能让衬衫出现。调整领带结到一个理想的左右对称的状态，要确保在领带结宽泛的底部出现一个干净对称的涟漪。
The Accents: Plain black leather belt with a small metal buckle (or dark-colored suspenders if no belt loops are present). White pocket square, crisply folded (point or horizontal style) in the jacket breast pocket. Simple metal or black leather band watch; any metal should match the belt buckle.
配饰：带有小金属扣的纯黑色皮带（如果没有带环可用深色吊裤带），白色方巾应折好放在衣服胸口的口袋上（三角式或一字型）。简单的金属或黑色皮革表带手表；任何金属配饰都应与皮带扣相配。
The Business Dress Interview
商务正装面试
When You Should Interview in Business Dress
应该穿“商务着装”的面试场合
You wear a business suit to interview for jobs where you might not be wearing a suit every day, but you might be called upon to for important meetings or presentations. It’s also a good standard to dress to when you’re applying for a job that doesn’t require suits but does typically expect you to wear a blazer or sports jacket and a tie, or slacks and a dress shirt. Typical settings where you’d want a business dress outfit for your interview might include:
你应该穿这种类型的西装去面试不需要你每天穿套装上班的工作，但当要去参加重要的会议或做展示时，你可能也会被要求打扮一番。当你申请的工作不要求西装革履，可是也通常希望你能穿休闲西装或运动夹克、领带、休闲裤和衬衫时，这也是一个很好的参考标准。这些地方很可能需要你穿这类商务正装：
Some casually-inclined law firms and banks 较随意的律师事务所和银行Most managerial or administrative positions 大多数经理职位
Business consulting jobs 商务咨讯工作
Public relations, advertising, and similar high-skill white collar jobs 公共关系、广告以及其他类似的高技能白领工作
Many political or highly-placed public service positions 许多政治类或高层的公共服务职业
Most teaching/academic positions 大多数教育类和学术类职位
Elements of Business Dress
“商务着装”的搭配
The fundamental expectations of business dress are that you’re wearing a business (not casual) suit, a white or white-based dress shirt, and a necktie, along with conservative accents. More specifically, it’s a combination of the following mandatory elements:
商务着装最基本的要求就是穿商务西装、白色或以白色为主的衬衫、领带以及保守的一些配饰。具体而言，是由以下这些必要元素构成的一个整体：
The Suit: Dark colored, smooth textured; either no pattern or very fine white pinstripes. Stick to single-breasted jackets to avoid looking too flashy. Worsted wool is best, but any smooth, matte material will work. Tailored fit if possible.
套装：深色，光滑质感，没有花纹或者精致的白色细条纹；一定要穿单排扣的夹克，避免看起来太过华丽；精纺羊毛最好，但任何顺滑、无光泽的材料也可以；可能的话，最好量身定制一套。
The Shirt: Plain white or white with light patterning. Point or spread (not button-down) collar. Pressed collar and shirtfront – no wrinkles; sharp collar points (collar stays will help). Tailored fit if possible.
衬衫：纯白色或带有浅色花纹的白色；宽领或尖领（不要纽扣领），衣领与衣服前段要熨烫平整；使用领撑将衣领保持挺立；最好能裁剪合身。
The Shoes: Black leather balmoral oxfords, polished. Socks should match trouser color – navy blue socks with a navy blue suit, etc.
鞋子：黑色的牛津鞋，鞋面光亮；袜子应该与裤腿的颜色相匹配，如藏青色袜子配藏青色西装等。
The Necktie: Any business-appropriate pattern that isn’t too flashy. Avoid shiny, reflective materials, bright colors, and overly-busy patterns. Centered and symmetrical knot with a small dimple just beneath it. Tie should be long enough to touch the belt/trouser waist with no bare shirt visible in between.
领带：任何低调、适合商务的款式都可以；避免光泽的反光材料、明亮的色彩或过于复杂的花纹；调整领带结以得到一个理想的左右对称的状态，要确保在领带结宽泛的底部出现一个干净对称的涟漪；领带要足够长，底端能碰到腰带或裤腰，不能让衬衫在中间露出。
The Accents: Black leather belt with a small metal buckle (or dark-colored suspenders, if the trousers have no belt loops). White or lightly-colored pocket square in the suit jacket’s breast pocket. Metal or black leather band watch; metal should match the belt buckle if one is present.
配饰：带有小金属扣的纯黑色皮带（如果没有带环可用深色吊裤带），白色或淡色的方巾应折好放在衣服胸口的口袋上（三角式或一字型）。金属或黑色皮革表带手表；金属配饰应该尽量依照皮带扣匹配。
The Business Casual Interview商务便装 When You Should Interview in Business Casual
应该穿“商务便装”的面试场合
Business casual is for any interview where a full suit looks too aggressive, high-status, or ambitious. Think of showing up in a blazer and good slacks rather than a matched suit. Plan on wearing business casual to interview for any job that requires professional dress but rarely expects suits and ties:
如果在面试场合中穿一整套的西装会让你看起来过于有侵略性，让人感觉高高在上和野心勃勃的，那么商务便装就再合适不过了。可以考虑一件轻便的外套再加上休闲裤，而不是搭配好的一套西装。如果这份工作的面试要求专业的穿着但又不需要套装和领带，你可以考虑考虑商务便装：
Many entry- or mid-level small business cubicle/office jobs 许多入门级或中级的小型商务办公室工作Clerical and civil service desk jobs 文书和公务员职位
Upscale retail positions 高档零售职位
Most political office and campaign roles 大多数政治职位和竞选职位
Engineering, laboratory, software, and other tech-sector jobs 工程、实验室、软件和其他技术部门的职位
Food service, particularly front-end (wait staff, bartender, etc.) 餐饮服务，特别是前台（服务员、调酒师等） Elements of Business Casual
“商务便装”的搭配
Business casual can cover a wider range of options than the business dress categories. Always err on the conservative side, which means wearing both a jacket and a necktie – you’re not going to lose points for having either of those things, and in a picky interview you might lose points for leaving them at home. Including the jacket and necktie, the fundamentals you need for a good business casual interview outfit are:
比起商务服装，商务便装有更多的选择。不要担心保守的穿衣风格会犯错，既穿夹克又打领带——你不会因为缺少其中一样而“失分”，但是如果在一场稍讲究的面试中两件东西你都没有穿在身上，那你很可能要“掉分”啦。除了夹克和领带，下面是你在面试中需要的一些基础的商务便装穿搭：
The Jacket: A dark, non- or lightly-patterned sports coat or blazer, preferably wool. Some texture is all right, but avoid aggressively casual elements like elbow patches. A navy blue blazer is always a safe default.
夹克衫：深色、无花纹或淡花纹的运动外套或轻便外套，羊毛材质的最好；某些材质也可以，但是要避免惹眼的元素比如肘部贴布；藏蓝色的外套总是一个保险的选择。
The Trousers: Solid color with minimal texturing. Wool slacks are best, but cotton is acceptable. Crisply-pressed creases are a must. Gray, brown, or navy blue work in most situations, but avoid khakis, which are slightly less formal.
裤子：纯色，尽量没有纹路；羊毛宽松长裤为佳，棉质的也可以接受；褶痕应熨烫平整；灰色、棕色及藏蓝色适用于很多场合，但是要避免略显不正式的土黄色。
The Shirt: Collared, but button-down collars are acceptable at this point. Some color is also appropriate, but keep it light – white, light patterns on white, or pastels; no deep hues or vividly bright colors. Make sure the front is pressed and the collar points are sharp.
衬衫：带领子的衬衫，纽扣领在这种情况下也能接受；其他颜色也同样可以纳入考虑范围，但是不要选择太亮的颜色——白色、白底淡花纹或者浅色；不要很深很亮的颜色；确保衬衫前面平整领口挺立。
The Shoes: Black or dark brown leather dress shoes. No metal buckles, elaborate brogueing, or exotic textures, but minor decorative elements are fine. Socks should match the trouser color; i.e., light gray socks with light gray slacks.
鞋子：黑色或者深棕色的皮质鞋；不要金属扣、花哨的拷花皮鞋或者具有异国风情的材质；但是加一些简单的装饰元素无妨；袜子的颜色要与裤子颜色配套，例如，浅灰色袜子配浅灰色的裤子。
The Necktie: Any color or pattern that isn’t too ostentatious is fair game, just be sure that it goes with the shirt, jacket, and slacks. Avoid anything very bright, very busily-patterned, or anything with a single printed graphic rather than a pattern (no Mickey Mouse ties). Tie should touch the top of the belt with no shirt visible in between.
领带：任何不招摇的颜色或式样都能用在这些场合，只要确认它们与衬衫、夹克衫和裤子搭配就行。避免太亮、花纹太过复杂或者单独印有一些图案（不要带印有米奇的领带）的领带。领带要长到能碰到腰带，不能露出衬衫。
The Accents: A leather belt in the same color as the shoes. Wristwatch with either a metal or a leather band; metals should match the belt buckle and leathers should match the belt/shoes. Colored and/or patterned pocket square in the jacket breast pocket, in any neat fold (puff, point, horizontal, etc.).
配饰：和鞋子颜色一样的皮质腰带；金属或皮质的表带手表；金属配饰应该尽量与皮带扣匹配，皮质单品要与腰带或鞋子一致；有颜色的或有花纹的方巾应整齐折好（蓬松式、三角式或一字型等）放在衣服胸口的口袋上。
The Casual Interview
日常休闲服装 When You Should Interview in Casual Clothing
应该穿日常休闲服装的面试场合
It’s rare to go to an interview without even a jacket. When you do, it’s usually for a job where there is no dress code, or only a very loose one, and typically a job where the interview process itself is fairly relaxed as well. Mostly you’ll be able to wear casual clothes at interviews for service-sector jobs where hiring is done by a short application rather than a full résumé:
很少有面试都不需要你穿上外套就能去的。不过当你能这样做时，通常是因为应聘的公司没有着装要求或者对工作穿着准则要求宽松，而且通常面试本身也是相当放松的。大多数情况下，你可以穿日常休闲的服装去参加服务类工作的面试，因为招聘往往是通过申请完成的而不是详细的简历：
Typical retail stores, especially chains 零售店、特别是连锁店Casual dining, foodservice, etc. 休闲餐饮、餐饮服务等
Manual labor 体力劳动
part-time jobs (dog walking, nannying/babysitting, etc.) 兼职工作（遛狗、保姆等）
Customer service 客服
Very casual start-up environments 氛围随意的刚成立的公司
Elements of Casual Clothing
“日常休闲服装”的搭配
For daily purposes “casual” is a huge category; for interviews it’s more limited. You want something that eliminates formal business elements like the blazer or suit jacket but that still looks respectable:
对日常穿着来说“便装”这个词范围很大；但是对面试而言，它的种类却非常有限。你肯定想拿掉那些太过商务范的轻便上衣或者西装夹克，但是还得看着体面一些：
The Shirt: Collared – either a dress shirt or a neat polo. It can be colored, but patterns should be reasonably restrained. The shirt should be tucked in for the interview.
衬衫：带领子的——衬衫或者整洁的polo衫；可以有些颜色，但是纹路要尽可能简单；面试时衬衫下摆要塞到裤子里。
The Trousers: Slacks, not blue jeans – khakis work well here. They don’t have to be nice wool slacks , but they do need to be clean, well-pressed, and well-fitting.
裤子：宽松的长裤，但不能穿蓝色牛仔裤——卡其裤也可以；不一定得是优质羊毛材质的，但是一定要干净、平整以及合身。
The Shoes: Leather rather than cloth or canvas. Casual styles like bluchers, brogues, saddle shoes, etc. are all fine, so long as they’re in good shape and recently polished. The socks should match the trousers (light tan socks with khakis, etc.).
鞋子：皮革鞋，不能穿布鞋或则帆布鞋；其他随意的款式如半统皮鞋、拷花皮鞋、马鞍鞋等等只要外形良好并且刚刚刷亮过也是可以的；袜子的颜色要和裤子搭配（驼色的袜子配卡其色的裤子等）。
The Necktie: Optional, but worth considering. A jacket is definitely too fancy, but a necktie and a collared shirt with no jacket says that you’re an ordinary guy who’s making a nice gesture to acknowledge the importance of the setting. It certainly won’t hurt you, and it might be a handy leg up on the competition.
领带：可系可不系，但是值得考虑。夹克衫肯定太时髦了，但是系上领带、穿上衬衫而不套上夹克则说明你是一个普通的员工但是却能表达自己很重视这场面试的诚意。这显然对你无害，甚至有可能让你脱颖而出。
The Accents: A leather belt that matches the shoes and a watch with either a metal or a leather band. Leathers and metals should match throughout the outfit.
配饰：皮质腰带要与鞋子搭配，手表可以是金属或皮革表带；皮质和金属单品要与整体搭配一致。
The Hands-On or Skills Interview实践类或技能型面试 When to Dress for Hands-On Work
应该穿“实操类服装”的面试场合
You’ll typically get warning if an interview is going to involve practical testing as well as question and answer. In some cases you won’t have to change what you’ll wear – if it’s a computer programming job, for example, a blazer or suit jacket isn’t going to hamper the practical part. But in many industries you can expect some hands-on skills testing that you’ll need to dress for specifically:
如果面试将涉及实践操作以及问答环节，通常都会事先提醒你。在某些情况下，你不需要改变自己要穿的衣服——例如，如果是电脑编程工作，不管是夹克衫还是西装外套都不会影响你的实践技能。但在许多行业中，你可能需要专门打扮来进行一些实际操作技能测试：
Construction 建筑行业Skilled labor (plumbing, carpentry, etc.) 技术工人（管道工、木工等）
Some landscaping/gardening positions 一些园林绿化/园艺职位
Farm or ranch work 农场或牧场工作
Factory floor jobs (machinist, etc.) 工厂工作（机械师等） Elements of Dress for a Hands-On Interview
“实操类服装”的搭配
The priorities are a little different when you know you’re going to have to work with your hands. Mobility and safety are more important than style – but you still want to look good. Your key pieces of clothing here are sturdy, practical items that can be dressed up by the addition of a jacket:
当你知道你自己将要动手进行实践操作时，优先考量的东西就有了一些不同。比起时髦，灵活性和安全则更为重要——但如果你仍想让自己看起来形象好的话，除了夹克衫关键是要穿一些结实的、方便活动的衣服：
The Jacket: You can take it off when needed, but throw a blazer or sports jacket on for that all-important first impression. The only time to leave it at home is if you’re only going for a skills test, with no sit-down interview involved at all. But if there’s a part that takes place in chairs in an office somewhere, have a jacket.
夹克衫：为了重要的第一印象，需要的话可以把夹克衫脱掉，换上轻便的外套或者运动外套。如果你只进行技术考核，根本没有任何坐下谈话形式的面试，那么你就可以把外套留在家里了。但是如果有一部分面试是在办公室里进行的，那么还是带上一件夹克衫吧。
The Trousers: Avoid light blue denim jeans. Wear khaki, navy, or brown work pants, instead – even if they’re just Dickies or Carhartts the color will make them seem more “professional.” If you’re told specifically to wear jeans, wear dark indigo instead of light blue.
裤子：不要穿浅蓝色的帆布牛仔裤；要穿卡其色、蓝色或者棕色的工作裤，尽管仅仅是迪凯思或者卡哈特的裤子，但是这些颜色会让你看起来很“专业”。如果你被明确告知要穿牛仔裤，请穿深蓝色而不是浅蓝色的牛仔裤。
The Shirt: Something with a collar is better than something without, unless there’s a safety reason to avoid them (which is rare – button-down collars are usually considered machine-safe). A light blue chambray or oxford work shirt is timeless and classic.
衬衫：有领子的衬衫要比没领子的好，除非出于安全考虑要避免穿有领子的衣服（这比较少见——纽扣式的领子通常被认为很安全）；浅蓝色的格子衬衫或者牛津工作衬衫是很经典的两个款式，永远都不会过时的。
The Shoes: Workboots if it’s relevant, casual leather shoes or boots if it’s not. In either case make sure they’re clean and free of any major scuffs or tears.
鞋子：如果需要的话穿工作靴，不需要的话皮质鞋或靴都可以。不管哪种情况，确保鞋子干净，没有明显地刮痕或裂痕。
The Accents: Minimal, especially around machinery. A sturdy watch (nothing clunky and plastic, though) is fine as long as it’s not a safety hazard, and you’ll want a plain leather belt. Other than that, leave the pocket squares and neckties at home.
配饰：尽量少搭配东西，尤其是要在机器边上工作的职业。结实的手表就可以（不要戴笨重或者塑料类型的），只要工作环境不是很危险的区域，你也需要简单的皮质皮带。除了这些，把方巾和领带这些东西就留在家里吧。
总而言之，要想完美地准备好面试的穿着，你需要做到三步。首先，你得了解应聘公司的着装要求；其次，在“多走一步”的原则下，合理地选择对应的面试服装；最后，再检查一下细节，头发、指甲还有其他一切能影响到你的形象的东西。 下一次面试，你准备好穿什么了吗？ 祝你好运！ （本文首发于沪江商务英语公众号，扫码关注，即可获取更多商务英语资讯。转载请“沪江商务英语”后台联系！）
