70年代古董珠宝行情火爆 Ultra cool 1970s vibe inspires wave of must have collections

The 1970s is achingly cool once again. In the world of fashion, Saint Laurent and Gucci are riding the crest of the 70s-inspired look.

上世纪70年代的流行风格再度成为时尚宠儿，圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)与古驰(Gucci)是这股复古之风的引领者。

And the world of jewellery is cashing in on the trend for nostalgia, albeit nostalgia only a few decades old.

尽管只是怀旧几十年前的流行时尚，但珠宝首饰界却乘势利用这股复古之风大获其利。

In 2007, Daphne Lingon, senior vice-president of jewellery at Christie’s New York, identified what would be the next big thing in the market. She won a surprisingly hard-fought bidding battle for a pair of 1970s David Webb gold and white enamel ear pendants for an unidentified high-profile client for the world of fashion.

早在2007年，纽约佳士得(Christie)首饰拍卖部副总裁达芙妮霠Ⅷ(Daphne Lingon)就已经对未来的珠宝潮流未卜先知。她曾代表一位未透露姓名的时尚名流，在一场惊心动魄的竞标大战中，出人意料地拍到了大卫韦伯(David Webb)上世纪70年代用黄金与白珐琅打造的一对耳坠。

Today, her instinct has proved accurate as the market for 1970s jewellery flourishes. Yet despite this, according to Ms Lingon: “We don’t have enough [1970s] pieces for demand.”

今天，随着上世纪70年代的首饰行情火爆，证明她当初的直觉完全正确。然而尽管如此，林贡说：“我们目前的‘存货’供不应求。”

Prices are climbing, more pieces are on the market and estimates are being smashed. A simple Bulgari gold chain necklace went for $25,000 — five times its estimate — at a sale in April held at Sotheby’s New York.

这些上世纪70年代的首饰售价正不断攀升，而更多类似物件正源源不断进入交易市场，先前的预估价不断被刷新。在今年四月举行的纽约苏富比(Sotheby)拍卖会上，一件造型简单的宝格丽金项链最终以2.5万美元成交——比预估价足足高出了4倍。

Frank Everett, sales director of jewellery at Sotheby’s New York, says: “People collecting jewellery in the 1970s are now in their 80s and 90s and are selling now. And there are more estates with 1970s pieces.”

纽约苏富比首饰拍卖主管弗兰克埃弗雷特(Frank Everett)说：“上世纪70年代首饰的那些收藏者如今已届耄耋之年，他们开始出手这些藏品；更多人家里还收藏有上世纪70年代的物件。”

He cites two big private collections in the company’s forthcoming December sale as an example, including an 18-carat gold and carved jade David Webb necklace with detachable pendant estimated at $80,000-$120,000.

他以纽约苏富比12月拍卖会上竞拍的两件私人收藏的精品为例加以说明，其中之一就是由大卫韦伯打造的一款镶嵌18克拉黄金与玉雕件、搭配可卸式挂件的项链，预估价为8-10万美元。

Fashion has shown jewellery the way. Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent (which made its name in the 1970s) has doubled the brand’s sales revenue from 353m in 2011 to 707m in 2014, thanks to his sellout 1970s rock ’n’ roll collections.

时尚界已为珠宝首饰指明了未来发展方向。正是由于圣罗兰（上世纪70年代创建品牌）创意总监艾迪斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)设计的上世纪70年代摇滚风格的首饰系列一款难求，公司销售额从2011年的3.53亿欧元飚升至2014年的7.07亿欧元。

And now there is Gucci’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, who has overhauled the company — and influenced the industry — with his heavily 1970s-inspired debut collections, which have helped reinvigorate the brand. In July, Gucci announced a 4.6 per cent jump in second-quarter sales, after a 7.9 per cent drop in first-quarter sales.

另一紧跟这股潮流的代表人物是古驰新任创意总监亚历桑德罗猠歇尔(Alessandro Michele)，他让古驰风格发生了脱胎换骨的变化，正是他深受上世纪70年代时尚风格启发而推出的首场时装系列让古驰品牌重现辉煌，进而深刻影响了整个时尚界。今年七月，古驰宣布第二季增收4.6%，从而与首季营收减少7.9%形成了鲜明对比。

“Everyone loves the 1970s and the idea of being so cool yet so laid back,” says Justin O’Shea, buying director for luxury e-retailer . “The 1970s spirit is unbridled and it provides a feeling of pure happiness, which resonates with the end consumer, whether fashion or high jewellery.”

“大家都喜欢上世纪70年代的时尚风格，它显得既新潮又休闲。”奢侈品线上零售网采购总监贾斯汀攠谢(Justin O’Shea)说。“上世纪70年代崇尚天马行空的时尚风格，它提供的是纯粹的快乐感，不管是时装还是高档首饰，都深受终端消费者的青睐。”

While 1970s jewellery by Bulgari, David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and other big names make the highest prices, the market for independent 1970s designers such as Andrew Grima and John Donald is growing, too.

虽说宝格丽(Bulgari)、大卫韦伯以及梵克雅宝(Van Cleef & Arpels)等知名品牌推出的上世纪70年代时尚风格的首饰市场售价最高，但安德鲁格里马(Andrew Grima)以及约翰唐纳德(John Donald)等上世纪70年代独立设计师同样越来越受到市场追捧。

Indeed, according to Daniel Struyf, Bonhams’ new international jewellery director, there was more craftsmanship in 1970s jewellery than in today’s pieces. Little wonder a Grima grey-blue sapphire and diamond square-cut ring in Bonhams’ fine jewellery sale in London next month is estimated at 500,000- 700,000.

没错，在邦瀚斯拍卖行(Bonhams)新任国际珠宝总监丹尼尔斯特鲁伊夫(Daniel Struyf)看来，相比如今的珠宝首饰，上世纪70年代的物件多由手工打造。由格里马打造的一款镶嵌蓝宝石与钻石、方形切割而成的蓝灰色戒指在下月的邦瀚斯伦敦名贵首饰拍卖会上预估价高达50万-70万英镑也就不足为奇了。

London gallerist Louisa Guinness, who launched LG Treasures in May focusing on rare 1970s (and 1960s) jewels, says these pieces have widened the pool of traditional jewellery collectors. “The designs are mini artworks so they appeal to collectors who like design rather than rocks or gold,” she says.

伦敦画廊经营者路易莎吉尼斯(Louisa Guinness)于今年五月举办了LG Treasures，专门展出上世纪70年代（以及60年代）的珍稀款首饰。她说这些展品拓宽了传统首饰藏家的收藏范围。“这些精品犹如微型艺术珍品，深受痴迷设计风格而非宝石或黄金本身藏家之青睐。”她说。

More women in their 30s to 50s are purchasing these pieces, too — to wear as well as invest. Catherine McKenna, co-founder of fine antique and period jewellers McKenna & Co, says: “They want an exclusive piece like a Kutchinsky instead of the same Rolex as everyone else.”

更多30岁至50岁之间的女性也开始买入这类首饰，既是投资工具，也作穿戴之用。凯瑟琳麦肯纳(Catherine McKenna)是老款珠宝首饰名品公司McKenna & Co的联合创始人，她说：“藏家希望拥有一款限量版的辜青斯基首饰（Kutchinsky，一个源自波兰的古老珠宝品牌，距今已有一个多世纪的历史，设计极为精美，以工艺繁复著称），而不是大同小异的劳力士腕表。”

According to Jon King, senior vice-president of product and store design at Tiffany & Co, the yellow gold that characterises 1970s jewellery makes it today’s canny investment, thanks to a better understanding of assets and investments. Tiffany has recently plundered its design archive for the first time, using its 1970s Blue Book catalogue for an eight-piece capsule collection with Dover Street Market including diamond and tsavorite gold earrings adapted from a 1973 cufflinks and stud set. “The 1970s broadens our international appeal,” says Mr King.

蒂芙尼负责产品与门店设计的执行副总裁乔恩金(Jon King)说，用金银铜合金材料打造的上世纪70年代首饰如今成了投资宠儿，这都归功于对资产以及投资理念的深刻理解。蒂芙尼最近首次大规模逆袭留存的设计档案——它从上世纪70年代的Blue Book高级珠宝目录中汲取灵感，与时尚概念店丹佛街集市(Dover Street Market)合作推出了八件套的混搭系列首饰(capsule collection)，其中就包括一款镶嵌钻石与沙弗来石的金耳环，它改自1973年的一套袖扣与纽扣。“上世纪70年代风格的首饰提升了我们品牌的国际知名度。”乔恩金说。

“Nineteen seventies jewellery is still relatively inexpensive compared to other popular periods such as Art Deco or Georgian,” says Sam Loxton, manager of Lucas Rarities, a London-based jeweller specialising in the 1910s to the 1970s, who spoke on 1970s jewellery at September’s Lapada art and antiques fair. “Prices [for 1970s pieces] tend to be under 50,000, while I sold a Cartier Art Deco diamond sautoir for 125,000 at Art Antiques London in June and a pair of Georgian diamond drop earrings for 145,000 in July,” he says.

“与阿泰科风格(Art Deco)以及英王乔治时代风格(Georgian)其它知名时期相比，上世纪70年代的珠宝首饰价位仍然较低。”Lucas Rarities经理山姆洛克斯顿(Sam Loxton)说，该店是伦敦专营20世纪初至70年代风格的珠宝零售店。在今年九月举行的Lapada艺术与古玩博览会上，他这样评价上世纪70年代的珠宝首饰。“这个时代的首饰售价往往不到5万英镑，而在今年6月与7月举办的伦敦艺术古董展(Art Antiques London)上，卡地亚(Cartier)一款阿泰科风格的钻石项饰以及乔治王时期风格的一副钻石耳坠分别卖了12.5万英镑与14.5万英镑的高价。”他说。

Cristina Miller, North American head of dealer relations at online marketplace 1stdibs, says the high visibility of 1970s jewellery online is fuelling the market — whether on its website or the auction house e-catalogue.

奢侈品购物网1stdibs北美地区经销商主管克里斯蒂娜猠勒(Cristina Miller)说：不管是在自家网站、还是在拍卖行的电子目录上亮相，上世纪70年代风格首饰的高曝光率让珠宝首饰的行情更加火爆。

“The big, bold designs and unmissable yellow gold are easier to see online than say the intricate Art Deco looks which are harder to see even with a zoom,” she says.

“在网店上，设计大胆的大物件首饰以及消费者不应错过的金银铜合金材质首饰在网店上比比皆是，而做工精巧的阿泰科风格首饰即便出高价也是难觅踪迹。”她说。

The deep-pocketed big brands are also driving the market as they buy back their archive to showcase in retrospectives and bolster their collections.

财大气粗的知名首饰品牌通过回购自己以前推出的老款式举办回顾展以提升自己品牌知名度，从而再助首饰火爆行情以一臂之力。

Van Cleef & Arpels is hoovering up its 1970s pieces as “if I wait I won’t find anything on the second-hand market”, says Catherine Cariou, the company’s heritage director. And Bulgari is showcasing its first coin collections, multi-gem sautoirs and other 1970s pieces in its Art of Bulgari show at the Tokyo National Museum.

梵克雅宝大量回购自己上世纪70年代推出的首饰款式，给人的感觉是：“自己在二手市场不果断出手，就会一无所获”。其传承典藏总监凯瑟琳愠里乌(Catherine Cariou)说。宝格丽在东京国立博物馆(Tokyo National Museum)举办了“宝格丽的艺术展”(Art of Bulgari show)，展出了自己推出的首个纪念币系列、镶嵌多颗宝石的项饰以及其它上世纪70年代的各款首饰。

“Everywhere we expose the brand, we show these [1970s] pieces to bring desirability to the brand and to convince clients to go for a high jewellery piece, particularly those clients from China and south east Asia” says Vincent Reynes, Bulgari’s UK managing director.

“不管在哪儿举办展会，我们都会展示这些上世纪70年代的首饰，以增加品牌满意度，并且成功说服消费者购置高档首饰，尤其是那些来自中国以及东南亚的客户。“宝格丽英国区总经理文森特雷恩斯(Vincent Reynes)说。

With the 1970s look still vibrating across the spring/summer 2016 catwalks, boho jewels look set for a glittering future.

上世纪70年代风格的首饰仍在各大时装品牌2016年春夏季展中大放异彩，波希米亚风格的首饰前景注定是一片光明。