欧美二手名牌时装网店走红(上)
Second-hand used to be a taboo.
买旧衣服穿，在过去是大忌。
No self-respecting fashion fan would admit to buying someone’s cast-offs, especially just a few seasons old.
有自尊心的时尚拥趸都不会坦承自己买过别人穿过的二手衣服（尤其是只过了几个时尚季的装束）。
Fashion was all about new, new, new.
时尚过去总是以新为上。
Times have changed. Now it’s about the nearly new; pre-owned pieces bought for a thrifty price, just a few seasons after their catwalk debut.
但如今早已今非昔比，现今追求的是八成新，只过了几个时装季的二手装往往以很优惠的价格就能淘到手。
At the same time, avid shoppers have become shrewd sellers, turning to booming consignment websites to shift unwanted goods quickly and conveniently.
与此同时，狂热的买家如今摇身一变成了精明的卖家，他们借助快速发展的代销网站便捷处理自己的累赘东西。
Previously, their options were donating or going through the inconvenient, time-consuming process of selling-on through bricks and Mortar stores.
在过去，他们的处理办法不是捐赠就是通过实体店转卖，既麻烦又费时。
Online, the vast eBay marketplace was their only obvious option.
而规模空前的eBay在线拍卖市场曾是其唯一选择。
Julie Wainwright, chief executive and founder of The RealReal, noticed a gap in the market.
The RealReal创始人兼CEO朱丽•温赖特(Julie Wainwright)注意到了市场存在的巨大缺口。
As a shopper, you run out of space in your closet.
对买家来说，家里的储衣柜已无多余存储空间。
After a while it just piles up.
过不了多久，就会衣满为患。
Before us your options for reselling were limited and clunky, she explains.
大家把它们再转卖的选择余地既小又别扭。她解释道。
In five years of business (predominantly in the US), The RealReal has sold on 2.5m items.
运营五年来（主战场在美国市场），The RealReal已成功售出250万件物件。
Chanel, Hermès, Prada, Rolex and Louis Vuitton are some of the biggest sellers. Consignors earn 60 to 70 per cent of the sale.
香奈儿(Chanel)、爱马仕(Hermès)、普拉达(Prada)、劳力士(Rolex)以及路易威登(Louis Vuitton)是最受欢迎的品牌。零售价的60-70%归委托人所有。
Second-hand used to have a stigma. Today it has none: worldwide last year $200bn dollars of personal luxury products went into the market, in the US $60bn were sold, says Wainwright.
买二手时装在过去是件丢脸的事，如今则大不一样了：去年全球个人奢侈品的销售额高达2000亿美元，光美国就达600亿美元。
There are multiple reasons — one is a generational shift, one is a green thing — when you buy something previously owned, you’re recycling, it’s a circular economy — the other is the internet and access to information.
温赖特说，买卖二手货原因多种多样——其中之一是出于更新换代，第二个原因是为了环保：购买二手货属于回收利用，是循环经济；另一大原因是因特网的广泛应用以及获取信息的渠道异常便捷。
To her, the biggest shift that laid the foundations of the consignment boom occurred in 2008.
在她看来，奠定网络代销蓬勃发展基础的最大转变始于2008年。
It was such a devastating time for almost everyone and the financial crisis brought a sense of guilt to shopping.
金融危机对几乎所有人造成了毁灭性打击，当时花钱购物有某种负罪感。
That said, no one is going to stop buying luxury but post-2008 the idea of buying luxury on value became important.
即便如此，消费者仍然大肆购买奢侈品，但2008年金融危机后，高性价比地购买奢侈品变得越来越盛行。
While the US market is dominated by The RealReal, France’s Vestiaire Collective has monopolised the European market.
美国市场由The RealReal主宰，而欧洲市场的主导者是法国电商Vestiaire Collective。
It started in 2009 with just 3,000 items from friends and networks, discloses Fanny Moizant, one of the site’s original six.
据该电商最初6位创始人之一的范妮•莫藏(Fanny Moizant)透露：网店创建于2009年，起初只有朋友与其它网站提供的3000件二手奢侈品。
Now, they have more than 400,000 items online and took Euro78m in 2015.
如今，网站销售的二手奢侈品超过了40万件，2015年的利润高达7800万欧元。
Its bestsellers are Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Louboutin, though mid-priced labels such as Isabel Marant and Maje also do well.
网站最畅销的品牌是路易威登、香奈儿以及娄伯丁(Louboutin)，尽管伊莎贝尔•玛兰(Isabel Marant)与Maje等中等价位品牌也异常抢手。
Moizant also cites the financial crisis as a catalyst.
玛兰也认为2008年金融危机是二手奢侈品网店井喷式发展的催化剂。
I saw the marketing phenomenon that was the fashion bloggers.
我当初看到各大时尚博主这类营销现象。
In France they were called the Recessionistas, because they appeared at the height of the crisis and were finding a smart way of reselling their own pieces on blogs and making money, even though there was no real system.
在法国，这些人被称为‘不景气时尚达人’(Recessionistas)，因为他们出现在金融危机最严重的时候，找到了一种在博客兜售自己用过的奢侈品并且赚钱的妙招，尽管当时并没有实际销售平台。
She agrees that the taboo around second-hand has disappeared.
她也认同社会上二手奢侈品犯忌之说已烟消云散的看法。
