女王的穿着时尚 包包里都有些啥(下)

As the most photographed and filmed woman in history and the longest reigning monarch, the Queen has been a focal point for mass communication as it has evolved, from its early days with the first colour photographs and newsreels, to the arrival of television and the internet. When she came to the throne in 1953, the Queen was just 25, her extraordinary coronation gown, created by Hartnell, was embellished with complex symbols and heraldic emblems of the British Isles and the Commonwealth, including an intricate pattern of Welsh leeks, meticulously embroidered on the dress.

作为历史上曝光率和瞩目率最高女性以及在位时间最长的君王，女王自大众媒体发展以来一直是其焦点，从最初最早的彩色照片与新闻影片时期，到之后电视和网络的出现。她于1953年登基，那年她才25岁。女王的加冕礼服由哈特奈尔制作，上面装饰上了各种复杂的象征着英国岛屿和英联邦的纹章与徽章，包括精细复杂的威尔士韭菜图案，该图案被细致地绣在了裙子上。

It’s worth noting what a fantastically glamorous figure the young, 20-something Queen cut, and just what an impact her youthful, attractive image made on the national morale and psyche in the early days of her reign. For a country emerging from wartime austerity, the young Elizabeth was a figure of hope and modernity. The fact that she came to the throne during the heyday of British couture worked in her favour, and although she may have not set out to create trends, she was certainly much imitated. There was even a certain adventurousness about some of her tastes, according to de Guitaut: “Some of her hats from the 1950s and ‘60s have been really quite experimental and challenging.”

值得注意的是，这位20多岁的年轻女王，其服饰造就了其多么雍容美丽的形象，她那年轻、富有吸引力的形象在她在位的早期给整个民族的斗志与心理形成了多大的影响。自战争年代时期至今一个世纪，年轻的伊莎贝尔女王是一种希望与现代的象征。她执位之时正值英国服装设计的全盛时期，这为她创造了有利条件。虽然女王自己并无用意去创造趋势，但仍受到了很多人的模仿。女王的一些穿衣尝试甚至是一种冒险，德吉托说：“女王在上世纪50年代到60年代戴的一些帽子是很具有实验意义和挑战性的。”

In the 1950s the Queen was shown incessantly on newsreeld in her Hardy Amies creations (“Reserved, restrained elegance”, as de Guitaut puts it) and Hartnell designs (“More showy and flamboyant.”) It was Hartnell who created the Queen’s stunningly glamorous day dresses of that era, with nipped-in waists and full skirts. And in 1960, for her sister Princess Margaret’s wedding, she sported an immaculate aqua-blue silk taffeta gown with matching bolero jacket and gloves. The net hat was embellished with two blue roses to symbolise Margaret’s second name.

在20世纪50年代，女王越来越多地穿着赫迪•雅曼（Hardy Amies）（按德吉托的话说，其设计是一种保留式的优雅）和哈特奈尔（风格更加张扬艳丽）设计的服装出现在新闻影片中。 正是哈特奈尔设计出了那个时期女王日常的瞩目服饰，多是窄腰长裙。20世纪60年代，在姐姐玛格丽特公主的婚礼上，女王穿上了一件水蓝色塔夫绸晚礼服，并穿戴着配套的女用短上衣和手套。她戴的帽子镶嵌着两朵蓝色的玫瑰以象征玛格丽特的姓氏。

Power dressing

权力服饰

The subliminal language of the Queen’s diplomatic working wardrobe worn on state visits abroad has been similarly thought through, with each outfit incorporating a nod to diplomacy in the shape of an embroidered symbol, insignia or colour scheme, designed to pay a compliment to the host country. On one visit to Australia the Queen wore a dress embroidered with wattle, the national flower of the country; she wore a dress embellished with mayflowers in 1957 on a visit to Nova Scotia; in 1983 her dress was decorated with Californian poppies for a visit to the west coast of the US; closer to home, at the annual Balmoral Ghillies Ball in the late 1960s, the Queen wore an oyster ball dress with tartan sash. Then there is protocol to consider – the Queen has visited the Pope at the Vatican seven times, and has each time worn black, complete with a veil, as any female member of the royal family is required to do.

女王在出国访问时所穿的外交场合正式服饰所带有的潜在信息也经过了充分的考虑。其所穿的每套服饰通过刺绣的图案、标志或所用的色彩来展现外交含义，其设计的目的是向接待国表示恭敬。在一次出访澳大利亚的过程中，女王穿了一件刺有澳大利亚国花金合欢的裙子；在1957年访问新斯科舍时穿着一件镶有五月花图案的连衣裙；1983年出访美国西海岸的时候，她的衣服上装饰着吉利福尼亚罂粟花；再近一些，在20世纪60年末的年度巴爾莫勒爾（Balmoral） “Ghillies Ball”舞会上，女王穿着配有肩带的带有牡蛎图案的连衣裙。礼仪也是穿衣中需要考虑的因素——女王曾七次拜访了梵蒂冈的教皇，每一次都是身着黑色的服饰，并带着面纱，这是皇室每一位女性成员都必须遵守的服饰礼仪。

The royal wardrobe is now largely created by Angela Kelley in the Buckingham Palace workrooms, and the silhouette is a version of the column shift dresses the Queen first wore in the 1960s. The head-to-toe, colour-blocked daywear and matching hats that the monarch favours for her public engagements have become her personal brand. It is an instantly recognisable style.

皇室的服装现在大多是由安吉拉•凯利（Angela Kelley）在白金汉宫的工作室里完成制作的，这一轮廓是女王在20世纪60年代第一次穿的宽松直筒连衣裙的一个版本。这套全身连衣裙同与其搭配的帽子深受女王喜爱，多在公共场合穿着，这已成为了她个人的标签，具有极高的辨识度。

“It’s a dialogue between designer and Queen, and in a way the Queen’s clothes set her apart from us,” says de Guitaut. “Because if she’s going somewhere we need to see her, otherwise it negates the point of her being there. People want her to stand out. So the format of her dressing has followed a constant path – the day dress and jacket or coat suit and a hat, and the obligatory accessories. You don’t see pattern much. You see a flash of solid, vivid colour with the hat matching the outfit, and the shape of the hat is recognisable.” In a perfect British Bake-off twist, some of the most iconic Royal hats recently inspired a range of cakes by Marks and Spencer to celebrate the 90th birthday of the monarch.

“这是一场女王与设计者之间的对话，女王需要通过服装将其与我们区别开，”德吉托说，“因为如果女王前往某一个地方，我们必须要见到她，不然女王的出行也就失去了意义。人们希望女王能与众不同。所以女王服饰的款式一直遵循着这样一个模式——日常连衣裙，一件短上衣或者正装外套，加上一顶帽子和必要的首饰。你不会看到很多的图案。你看的是一身明亮色彩的主装，加上配套的帽子与短上衣，帽子的形状极富辨识度。”最近，皇室帽子的形状也为蛋糕烘培提供了灵感，英国超市Marks and Spencer就推出了一系列受到皇室帽子启发的蛋糕为女王九十大寿庆生。

There are rules that are always adhered to – the two-inch heel, the hemline below the knee, the hem weighed down to avoid undignified wardrobe mishaps in windy conditions. The hats are small brimmed and tall (it is rare to see the Queen without any headgear – headscarf, hat or tiara is worn – unless she is indoors). The colours are bold, some might say difficult, pastels - lemon yellow or coral – and the silhouettes are tailored and suity. But it works – so much so, in fact, that the style has become a kind of paradigm for female power dressing, and has been adapted and borrowed over the decades by the likes of Margaret Thatcher, Angela Merkel , Nicola Sturgeon and Hillary Clinton. The look sends a message of power – it says poise, stature, not to be messed with.

女王的服饰有些必须遵守的规则——鞋底必须两英尺，裙摆必须长过膝盖，并加重量以避免在大风情况下意外走光。帽子的边缘要小，做得要高（很少看到女王是不戴任何头饰的——头巾、帽子或冕状头饰都会戴——除非女王是在室内待着）。服饰的色彩用得大胆，例如浅蓝色、柠檬黄或珊瑚色等等——服饰的轮廓都会被精心裁剪以保得体。女王的服饰风格已成为了一种女性领导人服饰的标准，被诸如撒切尔夫人、默克尔、尼古拉•斯特金（Nicola Sturgeon）和希拉里•克林顿所效仿借鉴。这一形象风格传达了这样一个有关权力的信息——平衡与高度，两者不能混为一谈。

Equally iconic is the Queen’s handbag, perhaps the most familiar item in her wardrobe. The bags are created by British brand Launer, and she is said to own 200 of them, all with elongated straps to allow for the necessary hand shaking. There has long been speculation about the bag’s contents. There is always a folded ￡5 note for the church collection on Sundays, some commentators have claimed, and a lipstick and mirror. And a mobile phone, suggest others - to call her grandchildren. The Queen has been said to use her bag to communicate subtly with her staff – if she places her bag on the table at a dinner, for instance, it discreetly semaphores the message that she would like the event to come to an end. In a recent formal family photo, one of the Queen’s small great-granddaughters clutches the large handbag proudly, as if to emphasise - and slightly lampoon - its near-mythic, talismanic status.

同样具有代表意义的是女王的手提包，这可能是女王衣柜中最令人熟悉的一样东西。这些手提包也由英国品牌 Launer 设计制造，据说女王拥有200个该牌子的手提包，这些包都有着长长的手提带以方便女王与他人握手。一直以来都有有关女王手提包里内容的猜测。一些评论员说，女王的包包里总是会放着一张折好的五英镑纸币，用于星期日的教堂捐献，此外包里还会放着一支口红和一面镜子。也有其他人说里面还放着女王的手机，用来给她的孙子孙女们打电话。据说女王还会用她的包包来同她的下属们进行微妙的沟通——例如如果她在晚餐的时候将手提包放在了桌子上，那么这传达出的信号可能就是她想让这个活动尽快结束。在最近的一张正式家庭照中，女王的一个小重孙女骄傲地抓着她的大手提包，似乎是在强调——以及轻微地讽刺女王手提包那富有神话色彩的护符似的地位。

When the occasion demands it – for evening or a high state occasion - the Queen has always emerged triumphant in a fully regal ensemble. Her elegant beaded gowns, white fox-fur capes and glittering jewellery complete with tiara are a signature grand combination. The fact that this is a fashionable look this year, (Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Gucci and Valentino have all incorporated a regal touch in their spring/summer collections this year) would seem to suggest that the royal nonagenarian’s ingenious sartorial messaging is still working its magic.

当情况需要的时候——比如晚宴或者高规格的场面——女王总是会以王室的风光形象出现在众人面前。她那饰以珍珠的晚礼服、雪白的狐皮披肩、配以耀眼珠宝的冕状头饰是一种宏大的标志性结合。事实上，这一形象是今年的流行风格，（Alexander McQueen、 Saint Laurent、Gucci 和 Valentino 都将这种王室的元素纳入了它们今年的春夏款服装）这似乎表明的是，英国王室高龄九十岁的女王的时尚讯息仍在发挥着其独有的魔力。