欧洲古城行 穷游奢游都能行(二)
Lisbon
里斯本
By setH SHERWOOD
作者：SETH SHERWOOD
It’s not quite the razor’s edge, but a walk along Rua da Misericórdia in Lisbon is a walk on the slim frontier that separates Bairro Alto and Chiado, two very different worlds in the heart of the Portuguese capital.
这里并不是什么刀锋，但是沿着里斯本的仁慈大街(Rua da Misericórdia)漫步，的确是行走在一条将上城区(Bairro Alto)与希亚多(Chiado)区隔开来的狭长边界上，将葡萄牙首都的中心地带分割成两个截然不同的世界。
To the west, bohemian Bairro Alto is the graffiti-sprayed warren of vintage stores, hole-in-the wall restaurants, dive bars and live-music venues, where noisy throngs fill the narrow streets until the wee hours.
往西走，住满波西米亚人的上城区，是一处喷满涂鸦的拥挤街区，到处都是些老式商店、简陋饭馆、廉价酒吧和现场音乐表演场地，狭窄的街道里挤满了嘈杂的人群，直到凌晨时分。
Free to enter, Carpe Diem Arte e Pesquisa plunges you into a gloriously faded 16th-century mansion whose maze of aristocratic rooms brim with sweeping staircases, huge fireplaces, panels of blue-painted azulejo tiles, and intricately carved plaster ceilings in varying states of dilapidation. These haunted spaces serve as galleries for exhibitions and site-specific creations by a rotating roster of international contemporary artists that has included the Cameroonian painter Barthélémy Toguo, the Albanian multimedia provocateur Adrian Paci and Portugal’s own tree-branch installation specialist, Gabriela Albergaria.
入场免费的艺术中心Carpe Diem Arte e Pesquisa，将你带入一栋已壮丽褪色的16世纪豪宅，一间间充满贵族气派的房间组成的迷宫中，随处可见弧形的楼梯、巨大的壁炉、白底蓝花的瓷砖，以及精雕细刻但破损程度不一的石膏制天花板。这些充满灵异气息的空间，被一批名单不断变化的国际当代艺术家们用作展览和现场创作的地方，包括喀麦隆画家巴特勒米·托古奧(Barthélémy Toguo)、阿尔巴尼亚多媒体艺术家阿德里安·巴契(Adrian Paci)和葡萄牙树枝装置艺术家加布里埃拉·阿尔贝加里亚(Gabriela Albergaria)在内。
Short on physical comfort but brimming with traditional Portuguese comfort food, Antigo 1° de Maio has drawn generations of discerning Lisbonfolk to its pocket-size room of tiled walls, checkeRed tablecloths and stiff wooden chairs. The portions are copious from beginning to end, starting with appetizers like escargot or melon with cured ham, moving on to the likes of grilled pork tenderloin and roasted sardines, before finishing in a wave of sweets that includes egg pudding and mango mousse. A three-course meal for two is about 40 euros.
Antigo 1° de Maio餐厅虽然在就餐环境上差了一些，但是供应各种传统的葡萄牙安慰食物，吸引着一代又一代挑剔的里斯本人走进它那仅有口袋般大小，由瓷砖墙面、方格桌布和硬木椅构成的屋子里。这里的食物份量自始至终都十分丰盛，先是以法国蜗牛或冬瓜配腌火腿开胃，接着是烤里脊和烤沙丁鱼之类，最后则以一组包括鸡蛋布丁和芒果慕斯在内的甜点告终。双人份的三道菜午餐，价格约为40欧元。
For a digestive, try a cup of ginja (4 euros), a Portuguese cherry liqueur, in the equally small, rustic and jam-packed confines of Tasca do Chico. Then get out your handkerchief. The bar is a haven of Fado, Portugal’s melancholy seafaring folk music, and stars like Raquel Tavares and Mariza have been known to stop by incognito for impromptu performances. Better still, there’s no cover.
为了帮助消化，不妨到Tasca do Chico那同样狭小、朴素和拥挤的空间内，来一杯樱桃酒(ginja)（4欧元），一种葡萄牙出产的樱桃味利口酒。然后就掏出你的手帕吧。这间酒吧是欣赏葡萄牙悱恻动人的海上民谣——法朵(Fado)的最佳去处，据说拉奎尔·塔瓦雷斯(Raquel Tavares)、玛瑞莎(Mariza)等明星均曾匿名在这里即兴演出过。不过更妙的是，这里没有任何曲目是翻唱的。
The extra money will be useful in Chiado, east of Rua da Misericórdia, which beckons with fashion boutiques, design emporiums, centuries-old churches, historic theaters and the city’s top gastronomic palace.
其余的预算在仁慈大街(Rua da Misericórdia)东边的希亚多(Chiado)会大有用处，这里的时装精品店、设计商场、古老教堂、历史悠久的剧院和城市里的顶级美食殿堂均在召唤着你。
Keen to eat from a platter decorated with half-unicorn men and zebra-bodied women cavorting in a garden of exotic butterflies and dragonflies? The boutique of Vista Alegre — a Portuguese manufacturer of high-end porcelain, ceramics and crystal since the 19th century — showcases a line of dinnerware decorated by the French fashion designer Christian Lacroix. Mythical creatures and other exotic fauna (and flora) animate the series, from dessert plates (29 euros) to teapots (180 euros).
想要从饰有独角兽人与雌性斑马人在满园异国情调的蝴蝶与蜻蜓环绕下嬉戏图案的浅盘中品尝美食吗？创建于19世纪的葡萄牙高档陶瓷水晶制品制造商Vista Alegre所出产的精品，展示了一系列由法国时装设计师克里斯汀·拉克鲁瓦(Christian Lacroix)负责装饰的餐具。无论是甜点盘（29欧元）还是茶壶（180欧元），神话生物及其他异域动（植）物的图案均令这些瓷器栩栩如生。
Or let Belcanto serve you. The decades-old institution was reopened in 2012 by the Portuguese celebrity chef José Avillez and already has two Michelin stars, the only restaurant in Lisbon with that honor. Centered on nouveau Portuguese cuisine, the à la carte menu might feature suckling pig with orange and potatoes, beef loin with bone marrow and garlic purée, or sea bass with seaweed and bivalves. Tasting menus are available for 125 and 145 euros.
或者让自己享受一下Belcanto的服务。这间拥有数十年历史的机构，由葡萄牙名厨何塞·阿维列兹(José Avillez)在2012年重新开张，现已拥有米其林两星级评级，是里斯本唯一享有这一荣誉的餐厅。以新式葡萄牙料理为核心，单品菜单的内容可能有乳猪配柳橙马铃薯，牛里脊配骨髓蒜蓉酱，或是鲈鱼配海草和贝类。这里提供的特选套餐分为125欧元和145欧元两种。
For a recap and a nightcap, survey the glowing city from the top-floor terrace bar of Hotel do Chiado, which was designed in part by the Pritzker Prize-winning Portuguese architect Siza Vieira. With a port-wine mojito (11 euros) or frothy Chiado Lovers cocktail (vodka, coconut cream, cocoa cream and hot sauce, 10 euros) in hand, you can spot the battlements of the hilltop Castle of Jorge, the Tagus River flowing toward the Atlantic, and the rest of Lisbon: dirt-cheap, gold-plated and beyond.
作为一天的告终，也为了睡前酒，我从奇亚多酒店(Hotel do Chiado)的顶楼露台酒吧中俯瞰着这座流光溢彩的城市，其中有部分正是葡萄牙建筑师、普立兹大奖(Pritzker)得主阿尔瓦罗·西扎·维埃拉(Alvaro Siza Vieira)的设计成果。端起一杯波特酒莫吉托（11欧元）或多泡的希亚多恋人(Chiado Lovers)鸡尾酒（伏特加、椰浆、可可奶油和辣椒酱调制，10欧元），你可以端详着山顶上的圣乔治城堡(Castle of Jorge)的城垛，流向大西洋方向的塔霍河(Tagus River)，还有里斯本其余的一切：亲民、镀金以及超越了这些的一切。
Copenhagen
哥本哈根
By LISA ABEND
作者：LISA ABEND
Not long ago, Copenhagen was a culinary wasteland of pickled herring and gloppy salads on rye bread. That began to change in 2003, when the restaurant Noma introduced a cuisine that made creative use of the Nordic region’s edible landscape, and transformed the Danish capital into the objective of a culinary pilgrimage.
就在不久之前，哥本哈根在美食方面还是一处蛮荒之地，只有盐渍鲱鱼和抹有黏糊沙拉的黑麦面包。这一切在2003年开始有了变化，Noma餐厅推出了一道创意料理，使用了北欧地区的特有食材，并将这座丹麦的首都转变成了一处美食圣地。
It wasn’t long before some of those who worked under René Redzepi branched out on their own — Christian Puglisi, a former sous chef, for instance, just celebrated his restaurant Relae’s fifth birthday. Now, while Mr. Redzepi is taking Noma in new directions — including reopening his restaurant as an urban farm — those who trained under him are no longer simply riffing on Nordic themes, but expanding or even discarding the New Nordic label altogether. Best of all, they’re doing so at all price levels.
没过多久，那些曾在雷内·雷哲华(René Redzepi)手下工作过的人员，纷纷各自开拓出了自己的事业——比如当年的副厨师长克里斯汀·普利西(Christian Puglisi)，刚刚为他的餐厅Relae庆祝完五岁生日。如今，雷哲华先生正在将Noma带往新的方向，包括以城市农场的形式重开这间餐厅，那些曾在他手下受训的厨师，也不再单纯地复制北欧风格的料理，而是拓展乃至整个抛弃掉“新式北欧”这一标签。最赞的是，他们的这种做法在不同级别的价位领域均有涉及。
On the expensive side are Amass and Studio. Graffiti runs along a concrete wall in Amass’s dining room, a clue that the chef, Matt Orlando, does not adhere entirely to the Nordic playbook. Although the restrained artistry of his dishes — they often look as if they were recovered from some extraordinarily beautiful forest floor — reflects the influence of his stint as head chef at Noma, the flavors here, in, say, St. John’s wort leaves stuffed with a creamy pea purée, are less acidic than the typical Nordic ones.
若想品尝昂贵的料理，可以选择Amass和Studio。Amass餐室的水泥墙上涂鸦遍布，似乎昭示着餐厅大厨马特·奥兰多(Matt Orlando)不会完全拘泥于传统的北欧料理。虽然他所做的料理呈现出的美感十分有限，常常看上去像是从某块极为美丽的林地中回收来的一样，这也跟他在Noma担任主厨时的节俭习惯有关，但是Amass这里的口味，比如说贯叶连翘叶卷奶油豌豆泥，就没有典型的北欧做法那么酸。
That makes sense: Mr. Orlando is from California, which may explain his restaurant’s laid-back vibe. Dinner often ends with patrons gathered outside around a bonfire. Tasting menu starts at 595 kroner (about $93, at 6.40 Danish kroner to the dollar).
这倒也不奇怪：奥兰多先生本人来自美国的加利福尼亚州，这或许可以解释他的餐厅里为何会有如此悠闲的氛围。晚餐通常会以老顾客们齐聚到外面围在篝火四周告终。特选套餐售价595克朗起（按1美元兑6.40丹麦克朗计算，约合93美元）。
There are no bonfires at Studio, which is all about refinement. Located in an old customs house, its sleek dining room juts out over Copenhagen’s harbor. At the helm is Torsten Vildgaard, who worked for many years as Noma’s research chef, developing many of the restaurant’s dishes. On his own, he’s allowed some of his French proclivities to slip into lovely dishes strewn with Nordic-style flowers and foraged herbs. A small heap of shaved truffles tops a perfectly poached quail egg, served wittily in a carton of untouched ones; brown butter adds caramelized flavors to what may be the world’s best monkfish. Tasting menu for dinner starts at 900 kroner, though there is a lunch menu for 450.
Studio里没有篝火，而是主打一种精致的氛围。这间时尚的餐厅建在一座古老的海关大厦里，就悬在哥本哈根的海港上方。掌舵的是托斯腾·维尔德高(Torsten Vildgaard)，他曾在Noma做了很多年的研发厨师，Noma有很多菜式都是他开发的。在他自己的餐厅里，他则将自己身为法国人的一些脾性引入其中，用充满北欧风格的花卉和食用药草，创造出一道道的可爱料理。将一小堆去柄松露堆在一只全熟的水煮鹌鹑蛋上，然后俏皮地夹在一盒原封未动的松露中间上桌；焦化黄油为大概算是世界上最棒的安康鱼添加了几分焦糖的味道。特选套餐中的晚餐售价900克朗起，午餐售价450克朗起。
On the affordable end of the scale is Hija de Sánchez. Passers-by at the Torvehallerne food market often marvel at the hand-cranked machine that turns out perfect tortillas at this stand. There is reason for them to marvel even more: Until recently, Rosio Sánchez was Noma’s pastry chef. Now she has opened the kind of place dear to her Mexican-American heart: a taquería. But these are hardly ordinary tacos: The sweetly savory mole sauce gets its depth from some 28 ingredients, the queso fresco is handmade from Danish milk, and those astonishingly good tortillas are made of Oaxacan corn that Ms. Sánchez mills herself. Three-taco combo plate, 100 kroner.
若要寻求价格实惠的餐厅，那就是Hija de Sánchez了。Torvehallerne食品市场里的路人，常常惊叹于能够现场制作出完美玉米饼的手摇机。其实还有一点能够让他们更为惊叹：直到不久前，罗西奥·桑切斯(Rosio Sánchez)还是Noma的糕点师。如今她则自己开了一间更受她那颗墨西哥裔美籍心珍视的地方——一间玉米饼店。但是这些可不是什么普通的玉米饼：甜香的巧克力辣椒酱(mole sauce)所拥有的独特口感来自28种原料，鲜奶酪(queso fresco)是用丹麦牛奶手工制成，那些格外美味的玉米饼则是用桑切斯女士亲自用瓦哈卡玉米磨制的玉米粉制作。三份塔可套餐售价100克朗。
Christian Puglisi also honors his roots — he’s half-Sicilian — with his newest enterprise, Baest. A rollicking pizzeria, it too pays obsessive attention to its ingredients: The salumi is made and cured in-house from local organic pork, and the mozzarella, made from Danish milk, is pulled by hand. The pizzas, like one with creamy burrata and leeks, are cooked in the open kitchen’s wood-burning oven, and are as good as any you’ll find in Italy. Dinner for one, not counting drinks or tip, about 200 kroner.
克里斯汀·普利西同样十分尊敬自己的出身——在他身上流淌着一半西西里岛人的血液——这在他最近新开的餐厅Baest身上也有所体现。这是一间气氛欢快的披萨店，同样对原料诸多注重：腌肉是用本土有机猪肉加工腌制而成，以丹麦牛奶为原料的马苏里拉奶酪也是用人工撕成细丝。这些比萨，比如一张布拉塔芝士加韭菜风味的，是用开放式厨房里的柴炉烤成，均不逊色于你在意大利能找到的任何一家。一人份晚餐，不包括酒水和小费，大约200克朗。
There are other noteworthy additions to the “former chef of Noma” list, including, at the high end, Taller, which specializes in a refined version of Karlos Ponte’s native Venezuelan cuisine; and, at the other, the cozy Café Lillebror, where whiskey porridge at breakfast and excellent sandwiches at lunch give way to a creative, accomplished tasting menu at dinner. Is it Nordic? In Copenhagen, at least, it no longer seems to matter.
这份“Noma前任厨师”的名单上还有另外几个值得注意的名字，其中有走高档路线的Taller，专擅改良卡洛斯·彭特(Karlos Ponte)的本土委内瑞拉料理；还有走平民路线、舒适惬意的Café Lillebror，早餐时的威士忌粥和午餐时的美味三明治，都比不上晚餐时充满创意、面面俱到的特选套餐。这些都算是北欧料理吗？至少在哥本哈根，这一点已不再那么重要。
Madrid
马德里
By ANDREW FERREN
作者：ANDREW FERREN
It’s not often that a prime and picturesque neighborhood gets the snub from travelers because its shops, restaurants and other establishments are considered too nice. But that’s what some visitors do with Barrio de Salamanca in Madrid, perhaps the city’s toniest enclave, often (and rather aptly) compared to the Upper East Side of Manhattan. While Salamanca’s streets aren’t paved with gold, the barrio does support a surprising density of jewelers, galleries, antiques dealers and luxury fashion houses where prices are, more often than not, sky high. On weekday mornings, rivers of tartan course along the sidewalks as uniformed children scamper off to the area’s many private schools.
一处风景如画的一流街区，因为商店、餐厅及其他设施都好得过头而受到游客的冷落，这种情形并不多见。但这正是部分游客对马德里的萨拉曼卡区(Barrio de Salamanca)所抱持的态度，这里大概算是这座城市里最豪华的飞地，堪与美国曼哈顿的上东区比肩。萨拉曼卡的街道虽非黄金铺就，但在这处西班牙市郊中，却随处可见密密麻麻的珠宝店、画廊、古董店和奢侈时装店，其中的价格往往高达天际。每个工作日的早晨，人行道上都能看到一片苏格兰格子的海洋，这是身着制服的孩子们正在蹦蹦跳跳地涌向位于这处地区的多所私立学校。
But for anyone hoping to savor the true essence of Madrid, even upper-crust Barrio Salamanca has price points ranging from modest to free. Among its cultural treasures is the newly renovated Museo Arqueologico Nacional (admission 3 euros, or about $3.30), which showcases the art and history of the country’s first indigenous peoples as well as the waves of colonizers — Greek, Roman, Moorish — who came here from across the Mediterranean.
但是对于那些想要尽情感受马德里精髓所在的人而言，即便是萨拉曼卡区这样的上流社会街区，也有价格从适中到完全免费的地方可去。当地的文化瑰宝之一，便是新近翻修完毕的国立考古博物馆(Museo Arqueologico Nacional)（门票3欧元，约合3.30美元），里面陈列着该国首批原住民以及后继的一批又一批跨越地中海来到这里的殖民者——希腊人、罗马人、摩尔人——所创造的艺术与历史。
If you prefer your art a bit more recent, head straight up Calle Serrano to the Museo Lázaro-Galdiano (admission 6 euros, with a free hour each afternoon) where works by the likes of El Greco, Murillo and Goya share galleries with decorative arts. Other neighborhood cultural beacons include the Fundación Carlos de Amberes, and the Fundación Juan March; both are free and offer temporary exhibitions, concerts and lectures.
如果你更希望观赏近代一些的艺术，不妨一直沿着塞拉诺街(Calle Serrano)走到加迪亚诺博物馆(Museo Lázaro-Galdiano)（门票6欧元，每天下午有一个小时的免费参观时间），里面既有格雷考(El Greco)、穆里略(Murillo)和戈雅(Goya)这类大师级画家的作品，也能看到装饰性艺术风格的作品。周边的其他文化信标还有安特卫普卡洛斯基金会(Fundación Carlos de Amberes)和胡安·马奇基金会(Fundación Juan March)，两者均可免费参观，并且提供临时展览、音乐会和讲座。
Gastronomically speaking, the neighborhood is equally varied. Drop into Jurucha for tapas and aperitifs (2 to 3 euros), and, as winter’s chill sets in, consider Taberna de la Daniela for a siesta-inducing cocido, the traditional Madrile stew of garbanzos, vegetables and pork that is served in three courses for 26.50 euros.
就美食方面而言，这里也同样给出了十分多样的选择。路过Jurucha时，不妨进去尝尝那里的餐前小吃(tapas)和开胃酒（2~3欧元）；冬日寒意降临后，可以考虑到Taberna de la Daniela尝尝诱人入睡的菜炖肉(cocido)，一种用鹰嘴豆、蔬菜和猪肉烹制的传统马德里炖煮佳肴，三道菜套餐售价26.50欧元。
If a nap is not in your future, try Magasand, the favored gathering spot for fashionistas who snack on sandwiches (5 to 7 euros) while perusing design magazines. If you’re willing to stand in line, the new Gourmet Experience food court at the El Corte Inglés department store at Calle Serrano 52 claims seven Michelin stars among its seventh-floor food-stall vendors with outlets by Jordi Roca, Roberto Ruiz and David Mu. A meal at Mr. Mu’s sit-down StreetXO costs around 40 euros; you can graze at the other stalls for less.
如果你从来没有想过午间小憩，可以试试Magasand，这里是备受青睐的时尚达人聚集地，他们常在这里一边吃三明治（5~7欧元）一边认真阅读设计类杂志。如果你愿意排队等候，位于塞拉诺街52号(Calle Serrano 52)的英格列斯百货(El Corte Inglés)里新开了一间Gourmet Experience食品超市，据说在七楼的食阁摊贩中，有7家米其林级摊位，包括乔迪·罗卡(Jordi Roca)、罗伯特·鲁伊斯(Roberto Ruiz)和大卫·穆尼奥斯(David Mu)开设的摊位。穆尼奥斯先生的坐食摊位StreetXO，人均开销大约在40欧元；你也可以在其他外带摊位里买到更便宜一些的美食。
Confiteria Rialto has been selling crisp and delicate Marcona-almond and chocolate moscovita wafers (250 grams for 12 euros) for more than 80 years. At La Húngara it’s all about the sweet charms (chocolate and raspberry 10 ways) of Austro-Hungarian desserts, which range in price from 1.50 to 10 euros.
Confiteria Rialto已经卖酥脆精美的马尔科纳杏仁白巧克力华夫饼（250克售价12欧元）卖了80多年。在La Húngara，一切则都是围绕着奥匈式甜品的（10种巧克力和覆盆子口味的）甜蜜魅力展开，价格从1.50欧元到10欧元不等。
For wearable souvenirs, Renatta & Go (T-shirts start about 15 euros) has chic casual wear for women and girls, and all that glitters is merely gold-plated at Aristocrazy (rings from 50 euros), which does a booming business in costume jewelry.
若要寻找穿戴类的纪念品，Renatta & Go（T恤售价从15欧元左右起）有别致的女性休闲服饰出售，还有Aristocrazy，那里所有亮晶晶的东西都是镀金制品（戒指售价从50欧元起），在饰品领域的生意十分兴隆。
Last year the Spanish fast-fashion emporium Zara (dresses from 30 euros) opened an elegant and very full-service new flagship on Calle Serrano, and its Massimo Dutti division has restarted a bespoke men's wear line (custom suits from 400 euros) under the aegis of the society style maven Rafael Medina Abascal, bringing a new clientele to the brand. Other local haberdashers like Lander Urquijo and Patch Mercantile’s Curro Ariza do their part to keep the local gentry looking fine at reasonable prices (shirts, 40 to 90 euros; 80-euro jeans) especially considering the quality of the fabrics and tailoring.
去年，西班牙的快时尚商场ZARA（服饰售价30欧元起）在塞拉诺街开了一间格调雅致、服务全面的新旗舰店，它旗下的另一品牌Massimo Dutti，也在社会时尚大师拉斐尔·梅迪纳·阿瓦斯卡尔(Rafael Medina Abascal)的加盟下，重新开辟了一条定制男装产品线（定制西装售价400欧元起），为这跟品牌带来了一个新的客户群体。其他的本地男装店，譬如Lander Urquijo和帕奇商业公司(Patch Mercantile)的Curro Ariza，均尽到了本份，以合理的价格提供款式精致的本地绅士服饰（衬衫售价40~90欧元；牛仔裤80欧元），尤其是就其布料和裁剪的品质而言。
So whether your budget is 20, 200 or 2,000 euros per day, Madrid’s Barrio de Salamanca is worth getting to know.
因此，不论你的预算是日均20欧元、200欧元还是2,000欧元，马德里的萨拉曼卡区都值得你去了解一下。
