经典款风衣又回来了 A New Life for the Classic Trench Coat
Though the trench coat was originally designed to protect military officers against rain and wind, nowadays it is as varied as the diverse cast of characters known to wear it, on screen and off.
虽然风衣最初的设计是为了给军官们挡风遮雨，但是如今，它和银幕内外穿着它的各色人物一样多种多样。
Think of John Cusack standing on the lawn, forlorn, with a boombox held high above his head in “Say Anything”; or Humphrey Bogart on a tarmac in the final scenes of “Casablanca”; or Prince performing “Purple Rain” in his custom purple trench coat during the climax of the film of the same name; or almost any actor in just about any film noir or television crime drama, from “Out of the Past” to “Law and Order: Special Victims Unit.”
在《情到深处》(Say Anything)中，约翰·库萨克(John Cusack)绝望地站在草坪上，把录音机高高举过头顶；在《卡萨布兰卡》(Casablanca)的最后一幕中，汉弗莱·博加特(Humphrey Bogart)站在飞机跑道上；在《紫雨》(Purple Rain)的高潮部分，王子(Prince)身穿定制的紫色风衣演唱《紫雨》这首歌；还有黑色电影和犯罪电视剧中的几乎每位男演员，从《漩涡之外》(Out of the Past)到《法律与秩序：特殊受害者》(Law and Order: Special Victims Unit)。
Such moments in pop-culture history present us with men who wear this timeless garment when they are faced with difficult tasks or find themselves in a state of emotional turmoil. The trench coat seems to serve as a kind of armor. On the city streets, on any given day in autumn, you can see it on anyone from a Wall Street banker to a Brooklyn artist.
在流行文化历史上的这些时刻，当男人们面临艰难任务或者感情波动时，都会穿上这种永不过时的服装。风衣似乎是一种盔甲。在秋季的任何一天，在城市的大街上，你都能看到从华尔街的银行家到布鲁克林的艺术家都穿着它。
“I believe the bridge between the downtown, young urban aesthetic and the tailored, business one is our outerwear,” said Ilan Chétrite, the men’s designer for the French brand Sandro, which offers a long trench coat in speckled wool. “I wanted this collection to capture a broad spectrum of the city’s archetypes: the musician, the young businessman, even the chauffeur.”
“我认为，我们的外套将市中心年轻人和穿着考究的商务人士的审美联系了起来，”法国品牌桑德罗(Sandro)的男装设计师伊兰·谢特里特(Ilan Chétrite)说。该品牌推出了用杂色羊毛面料做成的长款风衣。“我想让这个系列反映出这座城市各种类型的男人：音乐人、年轻商人，甚至包括专职司机。”
The adaptability of a trench coat — which seems appropriate for anyone’s wardrobe — is amplified this season. Like the oversize version from Sandro, others by Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermès and Lemaire offer similarly beautiful, tentlike constructions.
风衣似乎适合每个人的衣橱，它的强大适应性在这一季得到突显。和桑德罗的超大款一样，菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)、爱马仕(Hermès)和Lemaire也推出了大同小异的、帅气的帐篷状结构风衣。
At recent runway shows, Prada, Maison Margiela and Lanvin presented trimmer options, in nylon or leather instead of the traditional gabardine invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879. These trenches have a more tailored look, suggestive of the garment’s military origins.
在近期的秀台上，普拉达(Prada)、马丁·马吉拉时装屋(Maison Margiela)和朗万(Lanvin)推出了微调版风衣，用尼龙或皮料代替传统的华达呢，后面这种面料是托马斯·博柏利(Thomas Burberry)1879年发明的。这些风衣更加讲究裁剪，充分表现这种服装的军装起源。
In choosing trousers to go with a trench coat, embrace the play on proportion. You can go big: long billowing pants with an equally exaggerated coat. Or stay fitted: slim trousers with a tailored coat. Or mix it up, as suggested by Mr. Chétrite.
在选择跟风衣搭配的裤子时，你可以随意选择比例。你可以选择宽松的：用空荡荡的长裤搭配同样夸张的风衣；也可以选择合身的：用修身的裤子搭配考究的外衣。或者如谢特里特建议的那样，混搭起来。
“Pairing a long oversize trench coat with some high-waisted, cropped suit trouser perfectly translates this idea of contrast,” he said. “It helps to express the idea of a nonconformist man.”
“把超大长风衣与高腰八分西装裤搭配起来，就能完美表现出对比的概念，”他说，“它有助于传达不墨守成规的男人形象。”
