老格林威治，和睦古朴的海滨社区
One night last month, Lesley King received a Facebook message that reflected what she considers one of the finest qualities of Old Greenwich: a connected community.
上个月的一天晚上，莱斯利·金(Lesley King)收到一条Facebook讯息，这件事体现出老格林威治(Old Greenwich)在她看来最好的一面：这是个很团结的社区。Her new business, Back 40 Mercantile, an upscale general store for the eco-conscious, had opened that day in the small commercial center called "the village." (Ms. King is an owner with family members.) She had closed up shop only a few hours before. The Facebook message arrived around 9: A man she barely knew wanted her to know that he had spotted a candle still burning in the shop.
她新开的Back 40 Mercantile是一家高级杂货店，客户多为有环保意识的人群。这家商店那天刚刚在一个名为the village的小型商业中心开业（店主是金和她的家人）。她在几个小时前才刚刚结束营业，收到这条Facebook讯息的时候大约是9点：那是一个她不大认识的人。他就是想让她知道，他看见她的店里还点着一只蜡烛。
A resident of Old Greenwich since 2001, Ms. King says that sort of neighborly outreach is the custom in a community where people's yards don't extend much beyond their houses.
金从2001年起就成了老格林威治的居民。她说，在这样一个各家的屋外庭院都伸不出多远的社区里，那种从邻里间延伸出来的相互关照，已经成了一种风俗。
At the home she shares with her husband, Bill, and their four children, the swing set sits in the front yard, an open invitation to youngsters walking by. That might not pass muster in the parts of Greenwich that take pride in pristine, gated isolation, but the culture of Old Greenwich is better expressed by the prevalence of front porches.
在她与丈夫比尔(Bill)及四个孩子共同居住的家里，前院安装了一副秋千，这对于路过的孩子们来说就是个公开的邀请。那样的设施在格林威治一些以古朴守旧、门禁森严为傲的地方，可能是不合要求的；但在这里，随处可见的前院门廊却更好地体现了老格林威治的文化。"The best thing about Old Greenwich," Ms. King said, "is that everybody lives in houses close to each other."
“老格林威治最好的地方，”金说，“就是大家都住得很近。”A census-designated place with its own ZIP code, Old Greenwich occupies the southeastern edge of the town of Greenwich, bordering Stamford and extending into Long Island Sound. A summer beach resort in the 19th century, it takes in a large peninsula that tapers into a spit prized townwide as a public recreation area. Officially, the 147-acre site is called Greenwich Point Park; unofficially, it is known as Tod's Point, after a banker who once had an estate there.
老格林威治社区位于格林威治镇的西北部边缘，与斯坦福德(Stamford)交界，并伸入长岛湾(Long Island Sound)，是一个有单独邮政编码的普查指定居民区。这里作为19世纪的夏季海滨度假地，下辖一座渐成细长岬角的大半岛，是全镇居民都钟爱有加的一处公共娱乐场所。这片占地147英亩（约60公顷）的地方，正式的名称是“格林威治岬角公园”(Greenwich Point Park)；而私下里，人们则称之为“托德岬角”(Tod's Point)，名称取自一位曾在此地置业的银行家。If Old Greenwich feels less guarded than some other areas of town, it is hardly bohemian. Single-family homes in decent shape start at around $1 million, with the occasional exception; new construction can run millions more. Private neighborhood associations maintain their own beach areas and put fence sections in their roads to slow traffic. Local tastes are reflected in the wares at Back 40 Mercantile like Himalayan pink salt and $64 flip-flops.
老格林威治虽然感觉上没有该镇其它区域那么戒备森严，但也不是很波西米亚。那些独门独户、打理得非常体面的房屋，起价大约为100万美元（约合人民币614万元），偶有例外；而新建的房屋则有可能高达数百万美元。一些民间社区协会维护着他们自己的海滩区域，并在道路上设置了一些路障来减慢车速。当地人的品味反映在诸如Back 40 Mercantile这样的小店里，比如喜马拉雅粉红岩盐，和价格64美元（约合人民币393元）的人字拖。The housing market is just now emerging from a nearly two-year slump induced by Hurricane Sandy. Flooding in low-lying areas and a wind-driven fire that destroyed three waterfront mansions "left a bit of a scar," said Gary Cunningham, a former stockbroker who now develops single-family homes in Old Greenwich and is the managing partner of Core Properties.
这里的房地产市场经历了飓风桑迪(Hurricane Sandy)造成的将近两年的疲软，现在正慢慢复苏。低洼地带的洪涝灾害，与一场摧毁了三栋海滨豪宅的借风起势的大火，“给这里留下了一点伤疤，”曾担任股票经纪人、如今在老格林威治开发独栋房屋并担任Core Properties地产公司执行合伙人的盖里·坎宁安(Gary Cunningham)说。Uncertainty around the Federal Emergency Management Agency's flood zone remapping and new insurance rates also caused buyers to temporarily back off. These fears appear to be easing, however, Mr. Cunningham said. And he is further encouraged by recent revisions to the town's building regulations for flood zones.
联邦紧急事务管理局(Federal Emergency Management Agency)的洪水区域重新勘测工作仍未确定，而新的保险费率也导致买家们暂时退避三舍。然而，这些担忧似乎正在减轻，坎宁安说。而且该镇最近为洪水区修改的建筑规程，也让他愈发受到鼓舞。If the last three months are any indication, buyer confidence is back in a big way. Since June, at least four waterfront properties have traded above $6 million; the most expensive, a 7,700-square-foot colonial on Greenwich Cove, closed at $13.05 million.
如果最近三个月的情况是一种预兆的话，那么可以说，买家的信心正在大幅提升。自6月份起，至少有四栋海滨房产的交易金额超过600万美元（约合人民币3686万元）；其中售价最贵的是一栋位于格林威治湾(Greenwich Cove)、面积7700平方英尺（约715平方米）的殖民地风格住宅，成交金额为1305万美元（约合人民币8017万元）。What You'll Find
这里有什么？The heart of Old Greenwich (population 6,600) is its business district on Sound Beach Avenue, the main thoroughfare. The look is small-town America: rows of shops beneath colorful awnings, benches for sitting, plentiful flowerpots. Most of the businesses are independently owned.
老格林威治（人口6600人）的中心地带，是位于主干道桑德海滩大道(Sound Beach Avenue)的一片商业区。那里看上去是典型美国小镇的样子：一排排商店挂着五颜六色的雨棚，到处都是长椅可供坐下休息，还有大量的盆栽花卉。那些店面大多数是独立经营的。"People get very upset when they get a hint of national chains coming in," said David Rafferty, the president of the Old Greenwich Association. The district has seen its share of empty storefronts over the years; maintaining enough support to keep businesses going is a challenge, Mr. Rafferty said. These days, however, more residents are opening businesses themselves. In addition to Back 40, the district has gained a dog groomer and a bakery and cafe, Sweet Pea's Baking Company.
“人们一旦得知有哪个全国连锁店要进驻，就会变得很不满，”老格林威治委员会(Old Greenwich Association)的主席戴维·拉弗蒂(David Rafferty)说。该区域这些年来一直存在一定比例的空置店面；维持足够的消费水平以保证这些店面的运营是一项挑战，拉弗蒂说。但是近来，有更多居民开始自己营业了。除了那家Back 40商店之外，该区域还新增了一家爱犬美容店和一家烘焙食品与咖啡店Sweet Pea's Baking Company。The area also has its own train station, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the privately run Perrot Memorial Library. Nearby is 32-acre Binney Park, a green oasis with a duck pond and footbridges.
这个区域还有一座自己的火车站，已被列入国家史迹名录(National Register of Historic Places)，另有一座私人运营的佩洛特纪念图书馆(Perrot Memorial Library)。附近还有一座面积32英亩（约13公顷）的宾尼公园(Binney Park)，那里是一片绿洲，有一座鸭子池塘和几座人行小桥。Interstate 95 and Route 1 slice through Old Greenwich. Properties above Route 1 are generally less grand and less expensive than those below, which are closer to both shopping and the water.
95号州际公路(Interstate 95)和1号线(Route 1)都贯穿了老格林威治。1号线下游的房产一般比上游的更贵、更豪华，因为那里更靠近购物区，离海边也更近。What You'll Pay
要花多少钱？Of the 2,260 housing units in Old Greenwich, about 2,000 are single-family detached houses, according to United States census data. As of the end of July, 78 sales had closed year to date, down slightly from the same period last year, according to data provided by Charles Nedder, an agent with Coldwell Banker. The median sales price was up about 3 percent over the same period last year, at $1.379 million.
据美国的普查数据，在老格林威治的2260栋房屋之中，大约有2000栋是单户式的独立住宅。而据科威国际不动产(Coldwell Banker)的一位经纪人查尔斯·内德(Charles Nedder)提供的数据，至7月底，今年上半年已经成交了78笔交易，比去年同期略有下降。而房屋销售的中间价格为137.9万美元（约合人民币847.2万元），比去年同期上涨了大约3%。North of Route 1, the postwar subdivision of Havemeyer Park retains many of its original Capes and colonials, though teardowns are increasing. Older homes start in the high $700,000s, Mr. Nedder said. Below Route 1, $2 million is the more likely entry point for the four- or five-bedroom homes commonly sought by young families, said Rob Johnson, an agent with Halstead Property.
在1号线上游路段的哈夫迈耶公园(Havemeyer Park)战后住宅区，虽然遭到拆除的房屋数量还在不断增加，但也保留了许多原来的科德角(Capes)风格与殖民地风格的房屋。老式住宅的起售价接近80万美元（约合人民币491.5万元），内德说。而在1号线的下游路段，通常适合年轻家庭的那些四居室或五居室住宅，更有可能以200万美元（约合人民币1228.7万元）的价格起售，哈尔斯泰德地产公司(Halstead Property)的一位经纪人罗伯·约翰逊(Rob Johnson)说。New construction is another story. A quarter-acre lot with a teardown property goes for $1.2 million to $1.5 million, which means builders must price their properties at upward of $3 million, Mr. Cunningham said.
新开发的住宅则是另一种情况。一块四分之一英亩（约合1012平方米）的土地带一栋拆迁房，售价在120万美元（约合人民币737.2万元）至150万美元（约合人民币921.5万元）之间。这意味着承建商们必须将他们的房产价格抬高至300万美元（约合人民币1843万元），坎宁安说。Condominiums at Old Greenwich Gables range from one-bedrooms, generally priced in the $500,000s, to three-bedrooms in the $900,000s, according to Mr. Johnson. At the Common, a ‘70s-era complex, unrenovated alcove studios go for as low as $270,000, and renovated two-bedrooms go up to the high $400s, according to Peter Hoyt, an agent with William Raveis.
在老格林威治的盖博大厦(Old Greenwich Gables)，共管公寓的一般价格从单卧室的50万美元（约合人民币307万元），至三卧室的90万美元（约合人民币553万元）不等，据约翰逊说。而在Common这栋70年代的综合大楼中，壁龛大小的未翻修单间公寓，售价可低至27万美元（约合人民币165.9万元），而翻修过的两居室公寓的售价要将近50万美元（约合人民币307.2万元），据William Raveis房地产公司的一位经纪人彼得·霍伊特(Peter Hoyt)说。What to Do
可以做什么？Greenwich Point is the hub for outdoor activity. With panoramic views of the Sound, the park is used for swimming, fishing, sailing, picnicking, hiking and cycling. Seasonal park passes are available to town residents for $31; for those without passes or for nonresidents, daily entry is $25 a vehicle plus $6 a person.
格林威治岬角(Greenwich Point)是户外运动的集散地。这座公园拥有海湾的全景，被用于游泳、钓鱼、出海、野炊、徒步和骑行。镇上居民购买公园季票的价格为31美元（约合人民币190.5元）；对于非本地居民或没有季票的人，一日的门票是25美元（约合人民币153.6元）/车，6美元（约合人民币36.9元）/人。格林威治岬角公园的海滩上。
A seasonal farmers market is held Wednesday afternoons in the parking lot of the Presbyterian Church.每周三下午，在基督教长老会教堂(Presbyterian Church)的停车场会有当季的农贸市场。
The private Innis Arden Golf Club has an 18-hole golf course, swimming pools and tennis. The Rocky Point Club, also members-only, offers swimming and sailing.私营的高尔夫俱乐部Innis Arden Golf Club，有一座18洞的高尔夫球场，还有几座游泳池和网球场。同样是会员制的“岩石岬角俱乐部”(Rocky Point Club)可供游泳与航海。
The Commute通勤方式
The Metro-North train ride to Grand Central Terminal takes about an hour. A monthly pass is $276 at the station. Parking permits at Old Greenwich station cost $407 annually. It takes two to three years for applicants to get to the top of the waiting list, according to a spokesman for the town's department of parking services.地铁北线(Metro-North)的列车大约1小时可到达中央车站(Grand Central Terminal)。北线车站的月票售价为276美元（约合人民币1695.6元）。老格林威治车站的停车许可证年费为407美元（约合人民币2500.4元），但据该镇停车服务办的一位发言人说，申请者要花2至3年时间才能排入候选者清单的前列。
The SchoolsAbout 370 students in kindergarten to Grade 5 attend the Old Greenwich School. Eastern Middle School, with about 780 students, serves Grades 6 through 8. Greenwich High School, with an enrollment of about 2,600, offers more than 300 courses, including 25 advanced placement classes, and fields 42 varsity teams.
老格林威治学校(Old Greenwich School)从幼儿园至五年级有大约370名学生。中东学校(Eastern Middle School)提供6至8年级的教育，约有780名在校生。格林威治高中的在校生约为2600名，该校提供了超过300门课程，包括25个进阶选修课程，并成立了42支校队。Mean SAT scores for the class of 2013 (the most recent year available) were 559 for reading, 585 for math, and 571 for writing, compared with the state means of 499, 503 and 504. Ninety percent of the class of 2013 went on to attend college, according to a spokesman for the school district.
2013届学生的平均SAT成绩（目前可查的最新数据）是阅读559分，数学585分，写作571分，而这几项成绩的州平均分为499，503和504。据该校区的一位发言人说，2013届的学生有90%都进入了大学。The History
历史沿革Old Greenwich, which was the original town of Greenwich, as it was the first area settled by Europeans, has undergone several name changes. According to the town historical society, in the mid-1800s, Greenwich was used to designate the central part of town, and the original Greenwich was renamed Greenwich, Old Town.
老格林威治经历了几次名称变更，此地就是最初的格林威治镇，因为这里是第一处欧洲人定居地。据该镇历史协会(town historical society)的资料，在19世纪中期，“格林威治”常指的是小镇的中心地带，于是最早的格林威治就更名为了“格林威治老城区”(Greenwich, Old Town)。
In 1872, to draw summer tourists to the shoreline inns, the area was called Sound Beach. But public access to the shoreline gradually diminished, and in 1931 the beach moniker was dropped in favor of Old Greenwich.到了1872年，为将夏季游客吸引到海边旅馆来，该地区被称为桑德海滩(Sound Beach)。但后来，公共海滩的面积逐渐减少，于是到了1931年，海滩的称号逐渐被“老格林威治”取代了。
