丑陋的脚穿好看的鞋也差强人意

Women’s shoes are often regarded as small torture chambers for our feet, designed to give us an instant leg-up in the glamor charts while reducing us to an eye-watering hobble come the end of the day。

女士高跟鞋通常被看作是脚的刑室，高跟鞋能够立即提升魅力指数，但一天结束时，你会累到泪流满面、蹒跚而行。

But there is so much more to the female footwear story than this one cliché。

但是有关女性高跟鞋，除了这种说法之外，还有很多说法。

Manolo Blahnik

莫罗·伯拉尼克

On improving upon nature: The feet have always been the inspiration. If you have horrible feet, I always see the challenge to make it better. . Even the ugliest foot is going to be okay with a shoe that I do. This is the redeeming quality of a shoe well-made。

改进天性：脚一直都是灵感所在。如果脚部不舒服，我通常会看到需要改进改进的挑战。最丑陋的脚穿上我设计的鞋子也能差强人意。这也是好鞋子的补偿特质。

On the wealth of history: I’ve always love extremities in statues, Greek and Roman, in museums all around the world. Some of the shoes [I design] go back to the Hellenistic period, and things like that, but they’re completely different. Nothing like that was in Hellenistic times. My mind works that way: I just put details that remind of me of that kind of period。

历史财富：我一直非常喜欢世界各地博物馆中希腊和罗马雕塑的肢体部分。我设计的一些鞋子可以追溯至希腊时期，但又完全不同。希腊化时期根本没有这样的鞋子。只是我的思维是那样的，在设计中融入一些可以让我想起那段时间的元素。

On perfection: I like to do with absolute perfection the best I can. This is really my challenge nowadays. As you get to a certain age, you’ve got to do the best you can because it’s the only way you can really get satisfaction。

完美：我喜欢尽善尽美，这正是我今天面临的挑战。到了一定年龄，你一定要做到最好，因为这是获得满足感的唯一方式。

Charlotte Dellal

夏洛特·德拉尔

On the high heel as object of art: I love collecting beautiful things. I love objects and, to me, the shoe looks good on the foot, off the foot, or on your mantelpiece。

将高跟鞋看做艺术品：我喜欢收集漂亮的东西，我喜欢物品，对我来说鞋子穿或不穿，或者放在壁炉边上时，都是漂亮的艺术品。

Just from a design aesthetic, they have a wonderful shape. With the high heel, there’s the negative space between the heel and the ball of the foot, as well as the shoe itself. It becomes sculptural。

从设计美学角度，高跟鞋拥有完美的外形。因鞋子有跟，高跟与前脚掌和鞋子之间是负空间设计。这样高跟鞋与雕塑就有很多相同之处。

On the transformative power of accessories: It’s a cliché in saying, but I do think accessories -- shoes particularly -- change an outfit. You can literally dress up when you put on a pair of high heel shoes. It changes the whole thing: the posture, the attitude, the feeling. Everything. It elevates you in every sense of the word; it makes you feel somewhat special。

配饰的转换性力量：这么说很老套，但是我确实认为配饰，尤其是鞋子，能够改变服装效果。如果穿了高跟鞋，你自可以尽情着上盛装。高跟鞋能带来很大的改变：姿势，态度，感觉。它能改变一切。它在方方面面都将你提高至新的水平，赋予你与众不同的感觉。

Pierre Hardy

皮埃尔·哈迪

On the future present: Fashion is short-view sci-fi. It’s sci-fi for tomorrow, not into a century or two centuries。

时尚是短期的“科幻小说”，只是明天的“科幻小说”，而非一两百年之后的“科幻小说”。

There is something about the projection that you have to reach to create new shapes and to invent a new type of object, but at the same time fashion talks about femininity and about elegance and about chic. All these notions are from the past and make reference to ideal shapes that we already know。

当然，设计时需要创造新的形状或者设计新型物品，但与此同时，时尚反应的还有女性气质、高雅与时髦。所有意向都源于过去，并参考我们一直的理想形状。

That’s something I love about fashion: to combine the desire for the future with with the knowledge of what was before; to try to combine those two opposite elements。

这也是时尚吸引我的地方：将我们对未来的期待和之前的知识融为一体，试着融合两种对立的元素。

There was a period when people were much more prospective, and believed much more in the future and in progress -- for example, in the 50’s and the 60’s, and even the 70’s sometimes. But nowadays we embrace a lot of different periods, a lot of different styles altogether. I think regarding artists and the history of art, our period is very baroque moment, a much combined moment。

有段时间，人们更具前瞻性，更加相信未来和进步。比如，在五六十年代甚至在七十年代的一些时候。但现在，我们接纳不同阶段，不同风格。我认为对于艺术家以及艺术史来说，我们这个时代是巴洛克形式的，是个大融合的时代。

In our society, you know, civilization, walking barefoot is forbidden. Totally. Even if you aren’t aware of it, this taboo is included in your mind. It’s an obligation, a constraint. I think shoes and this love of shoes is a way to twist this constraint into a pleasure. It’s the definition of feminism or desire. Because you don’t have this reason to go barefoot, let’s make the shoe as glorious as possible。

在当今社会文化下，不允许赤脚步行。即使你对此并不了解，这种禁忌也是隐藏在你的意识之中的。这是一种义务一种约束。我认为鞋子以及都鞋子的热爱是将这种约束转化成乐趣的一种方式。它是对女性主义或欲望的诠释。鉴于你不能赤脚行走，那么我们尽可能设计好的鞋子吧。