巴黎时装周的六大时尚

The season reached its triumphant finale with gothic tragediennes, a Technicolor menagerie — and some very challenging trousers

发布今年秋冬季时装潮流的巴黎时装周已拉下帷幕，下半年都有些什么时尚潮流呢？

Abstracted animal print

一、抽象风格的动物图纹

Herds of Models charged the runway in every incarnation of animal print. Game-hunters will be stalking the shops for Dior’s vinyl giraffe boots, the neon cheetah prints at Kenzo, and Louis Vuitton’s leopard and leather prizes. Double points for Miu Miu though, which took the whole safari down the catwalk in crocodile cirés, big cat cottons, python skins and patent leathers.

模特们身穿各种动物图纹装亮相T型台。潮男潮女届时定会蜂拥至各时尚门店，抢购迪奥(Dior)饰有长颈鹿图纹的乙烯基塑料长靴、高田贤三(Kenzo)的霓虹色豹纹装以及路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的豹纹及皮草珍品。然而，Miu Miu可谓“一石二鸟”，它就如同把整个动物园搬上了T型台——印有鳄鱼图纹的蜡光装、印有大型猫科动物图纹的棉布装、蟒皮装以及漆皮装。

Mannish jackets

二、男式外套

Big, boxy and often blouson, jackets took their lead from the men this season. At Nina Ricci, Guillaume Henry tempered feminine laces with oversized structured blazers, while Vivienne Westwood offered an enormous shoulder shape (“It makes the head look smaller,” she observed). At Loewe, a buffalo bomber helped add a futuristic 1980s flavour, while at Akris it was 50 shades of grey.

直筒大款束腰形男式夹克引领这个时装季。莲娜•丽姿(Nina Ricci)创意总监纪尧姆•亨利(Guillaume Henry)用女式蕾丝来“中和”超大款运动夹克，而薇薇恩•韦斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)则推出了超宽肩版的外套（她如此评述，“这样一来让头显得小多了”）；罗意威(Loewe)推出的印有水牛图纹的短夹克（bomber，腰部和袖口带有松紧带）增添了一丝上世纪80年代未来派的意味，而艾克瑞斯(Akris)推出了50道灰色阴影风格的(50 shades of grey)外套。

Victoriana

三、维多利亚时代(Victoriana)的风格

Tattered glamour and washed silks at Céline, a waitress fit for a Manet painting at Chanel and Egon Schiele-style waifs at Alexander McQueen: the week was infused with the Belle Époque. Even Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, the king of street couture, dressed his Mexican chola girls in peacock-printed silks and Victorian velvets.

赛琳(Céline)推出了残缺美的女装以及水洗过的丝绸装，香奈儿(Chanel)推出的女装就犹如马奈(Manet)油画中的侍女装，亚历山大•麦奎(Alexander McQueen)推出的时装穿在奥匈帝国时期画家埃贡•席勒(Egon Schiele)画笔下的流浪儿身上再合适不过了：本届时装周充斥着“美好时代”（Belle Époque，指欧洲19世纪末至一战爆发前那段和平、繁荣的时期）的时尚风。即便纪梵希创意总监、街头时尚女装之王里卡尔多•蒂希(Riccardo Tisci)也用孔雀图纹的丝绸装与维多利亚时代风格的天鹅绒来装扮他的墨西哥Chola风格的女模特（Chola词源于1851年西班牙人殖民南美洲时，与北方墨西哥的阿兹特克人混血所生下的下一代称为Chola，直到1970年后因几乎无纯正的阿兹特克人，而将南美拉丁裔统称Chola，这种穿环、刺青的民族风格传到美国洛杉矶后便成为所谓的Chola风--译者注）。

High-waisted trousers

四、高腰裤

Waistbands — often cinched and belted, some with paper-bag frills — are on the rise. From sorbet-coloured skinnies with patch pockets at Carven to fluid jacquard silks at Stella McCartney and the skinniest of Saint Laurent tuxedos, the trousers were ankle-skimming and soared up above the navel. Do your legs look long in these? Sure, just as long as you can wiggle into them.

腰带（通常系肚带与束带，有些则是纸带饰边）型时装不断增多。不管是卡芬(Carven)带有贴袋的冰沙色紧身装、斯特拉•麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)优雅自然的提花丝绸装，还是圣罗兰超瘦版晚礼服，所配裤子都是下抵脚踝，上过肚脐。穿上这样的裤子，诸位是不是感觉腿长了？没错，穿上后摆动时，感觉腿就如同裤管那样长了。

Gloves

五、手套

Black gloves were the most practical accessory trend to come out of Paris. Mostly crafted in leather, they came in all forms — from fingerless at Yohji Yamamoto to croc-printed at Balenciaga, and elbow-length with ruching details at Elie Saab.

黑手套是本届巴黎秋冬季时装周最为实用的流行性配饰。多数手套用皮革打造，款式一应俱全——从山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)的露指手套到巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的鳄鱼图纹手套、再到艾莉•萨博(Elie Saab)齐肘长手套（其褶饰经过精心打造），可谓应有尽有。

Tassels

六、流苏

From gypsy plaits at Chloé to belted braiding at Lanvin, tassels were the trimming of choice. Chitose Abe crafted geometric-print leather to edge belts and scarves at Sacai, while over at Olympia Le Tan it was a sumptuous affair, where gold tassels adorned velvets in royal shades.

从蔻依(Chloé)吉普赛风格的辫绳到朗万(Lanvin)的束带款穗带，流苏都是精心打造的配饰。日本时尚品牌Sacai的设计师阿部千登势(Chitose Abe)用带有几何图案的皮子手工给皮带与丝巾镶边，而Olympia Le Tan则极尽奢华之能事，她用皇家色调的天鹅绒点缀金黄色流苏。