本季时装盛会充满魔幻世界的魅力

The enchantment of magical places, from medieval castles to storybook gardens, inhabits fashion this season, as designers focus on the narratives of familiar legends and folklore.

这一季的时装充满魔幻世界的魅力——从中世纪的城堡到小说中的花园——因为设计师们格外关注众所周知的传说和民间故事。

Chivalry reigns on, according to Mary Katrantzou, who incorporated regal, heraldic motifs in her fall collection (top center-left). Dolce & Gabbana (bottom left) borrowed from the stately robes worn by the fabled King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table, as depicted in a 15th-century manuscript (top left). The princesses they fought for were evoked in ethereal white gowns at Alexander McQueen (bottom right); these maidens looked as if they could live at Neuschwanstein Castle (top right) in Bavaria, built in 1869 by the eccentric King Ludwig II. In tales and fables, thickets like the Dark Hedges in Ballymoney, Northern Ireland (bottom center), where “Game of Thrones” was filmed, are alive with Fairy creatures of the kind sculpted by Janine Janet (top center-right) in 1957.

玛丽·卡特兰佐(Mary Katrantzou)说，骑士精神开始流行。她把王室的纹章图案融入自己的秋季系列中（上排中左）。杜嘉班纳（Dolce & Gabbana，左下）借鉴传说中亚瑟王和圆桌骑士们所穿的华丽长袍，正如15世纪的一个手稿描绘的那样（左上）。亚历山大·麦昆（Alexander McQueen，右下）飘逸的白色礼服让人想起了骑士们保卫的公主；这些少女们看起来像是住在巴伐利亚的新天鹅城堡（Neuschwanstein Castle，右上），它是古怪的路德维格二世1869年修建的。北爱尔兰的巴利马尼区是《权力的游戏》(Game of Thrones)的拍摄地，在传说故事中，那里的黑暗树篱（中下）里住着仙女，就像雅尼娜·珍妮特(Janine Janet)1957年创作的那种雕塑（上排中右）。

Fairy tales are more compelling when based in reality. Since serving as the refectory of Hogwarts in the Harry Potter movies, the Great Hall of Christ Church (bottom center) has become the most visited site at the University of Oxford, and the Witch’s House (top center), built by the Hollywood art director Harry Oliver in 1921, is now a much-frequented landmark in Beverly Hills. For fall, Disney’s Snow White appeared on dresses at REDValentino (right) and at Alice and Olivia, where a model played the pale beauty in a crystal casket (left). Schiaparelli showed a dress embroidered with a bleeding heart (far right) while Dolce & Gabbana created a woodsy cape (center) and Undercover’s coronated models (far left) clutched electronic apples as if to ward off temptation.

基于现实的童话更有吸引力。自从基督教堂的大会堂（中下）成为《哈利·波特》系列电影中霍格沃茨魔法学校的餐厅的拍摄地之后，这里成为牛津大学被参观最多的地方，女巫的房子（上中）是好莱坞艺术导演哈里·奥利弗(Harry Oliver)1921年建造的，现在是贝弗利山的热门地标建筑。今年秋季，迪士尼的白雪公主出现在红·华伦天奴(REDValentino)的连衣裙上（右），也出现在爱丽丝+奥利维亚(Alice and Olivia)的秀台上，一位模特扮演水晶棺中面色苍白的美人（左）。夏帕瑞丽(Schiaparelli)推出了一款绣着流血的心的连衣裙（最右），杜嘉班纳设计了一件具有森林色彩的披肩（中），高桥盾UC(Undercover)戴着皇冠的模特们（最左）拿着电子苹果，好像是为了避开诱惑。

Fanciful spaces have often been realized by those who wished to occupy their own made-up worlds. One was the Prince Regent, who in 1815 employed John Nash to create the Indo-Saracenic pavilion (top left) in Brighton, England, as a riposte to the classicist architecture of the time. Tony Duquette’s Malibu Ranch (top center) was a latter-day equivalent: a city of pseudo-oriental architecture, in which one could easily dress in Anna Sui’s chinoiserie-inspired fall line (left). In a rural setting, Valentino’s gauzy frocks (both bottom right) might fit in Marie Antoinette’s 18th-century fantasy farm, L’Hameau de la Reine (bottom center), at Versailles. A truly quixotic landscape is seen in Salvador Dalí’s 1946 painting “The Temptation of St. Anthony” (top right), which depicts a metropolis set upon the backs of animals. The sandy hues in the exotic worlds conjured by Richard Selesnick and Nicholas Kahn in their narrative photo novellas (center) is echoed in Ralph Lauren’s majestic fall evening wear (center left).

别出心裁的建筑通常是由想住在自己幻想世界的人实现的。摄政王(Prince Regent)就是其中之一，1815年他雇佣约翰·纳什(John Nash)在英国布赖顿修建了一座印度撒拉逊风格的亭子（上左），作为对当时古典主义建筑风格的反击。托尼·杜克特(Tony Duquette)的马利布农场（Malibu Ranch，上中）是近代的一个类似的伪东方建筑群，在里面穿着安娜苏(Anna Sui)具有中国艺术风格的秋季服装系列（左）应该非常合适。华伦天奴的秀台是田园风格的，它的轻薄连衫裙（右下的两款）可能很适合玛丽·安托瓦内特(Marie Antoinette)18世纪在凡尔赛修建的幻想农场——王后村庄（中下）。萨尔瓦多·达利(Salvador Dalí)1946年的油画《圣安东尼的诱惑》（The Temptation of St. Anthony，右上）描绘了一个建在动物背上的大都市，那是真正的空想风景。理查德·塞莱斯尼克(Richard Selesnick)和尼古拉斯·卡恩(Nicholas Kahn)在叙事照片小说（中）中想像出来的异域世界的多沙色调在拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)庄严的秋季晚礼服中得以体现（中左）。