尽享奢华 用别具匠心的材料制造腕表

A new breed of watchmaker is breaking the industry's mold of elegant-if-conservative designs by crafting timepieces out of unusual and exotic materials, including pieces of classic sports cars and parts of the Statue of Liberty.

钟表行业“传统即高雅”的设计理念正在被新一代钟表商所颠覆，他们正在使用罕见且奇特的材料来打造钟表，其中包括取自经典跑车以及自由女神像的材料。

Take RJ Watches SA's Moon Orbiter, a watch inspired by the Apollo missions that took the first men to the moon. Each timepiece contains metal from the Apollo 11 spacecraft used by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to get to the Sea of Tranquility in 1969.

让我们以RJ Watches SA制造的Moon Orbiter腕表为例，这款腕表的灵感源自实现了人类首次登月的阿波罗登月计划。每块Moon Orbiter腕表都含有取自“阿波罗11号”(Apollo 11)宇宙飞船的金属，1969年，尼尔·阿姆斯特朗(Neil Armstrong)和巴兹·奥尔德林(Buzz Aldrin)正是乘坐“阿波罗11号”宇宙飞船抵达宁静海(Sea of Tranquilit)的。

The Geneva-based watchmaker, commonly know as Romain Jerome, also secured moon dust at an auction, incorporating the extraterrestrial particles in the timepiece's dial.

这家总部位于日内瓦的钟表商为人所熟知的名字是罗曼·杰罗姆(Romain Jerome)，该公司还在一次拍卖中将月面尘埃收归囊中，并在这款手表的表盘中用上了这些来自外太空的颗粒。

'We are offering our customers the opportunity to wear a piece of history,' Chief Executive Manuel Emch, said at the BaselWorld watch show, which is running this week. The company has also produced watches using metal from the ill-fated passenger liner Titanic and copper removed from the Statue of Liberty when the New York statue was renovated for its 100th anniversary.

罗曼·杰罗姆的首席执行长曼纽尔·埃姆什(Manuel Emch)在本月举办的巴塞尔钟表珠宝展(BaselWorld)上表示：“我们向消费者提供的是佩戴历史的机会。”罗曼·杰罗姆还曾以取自“泰坦尼克号”(Titanic)沉船上的金属与纽约自由女神像上的铜件（百年庆典整修时被替换下来的）为原料制造过手表。

Romain Jerome's creations might be out of this world but the company's strategy isn't. Watchmakers are increasingly turning to unusual materials, including wood and gold-and-ceramic blends, to differentiate their products in an industry crowded with Swatch Group AG's Omega and Longines lines and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA's Cartier and IWC lines, as well as Rolex SA's eponymous brand.

罗曼·杰罗姆的腕表或许称得上是世间极品，但是该公司的策略却并非独步天下。为了在行业中脱颍而出，在这个充斥着斯沃琪集团(Swatch Group AG)生产的欧米茄(Omega)和浪琴(Longines)、历峰集团(Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA)生产的卡地亚(Cartier)和万国(IWC)以及劳力士集团(Rolex SA)生产的知名腕表的钟表世界中，钟表商越来越青睐与众不同的材料，包括木材以及融合了黄金和陶瓷的新材质。

Among the more wild efforts are a Richard Mille SA watch made entirely of sapphire, that sells for a cool $1.8 million, and the $55 million Hallucination wristwatch created by British jeweler Graff that contains more than 100 carats of diamonds.

其中登峰造极的两款作品要属理查德·米勒(Richard Mille SA)打造的全蓝宝石腕表和英国珠宝商格拉夫(Graff)打造的镶嵌有超过100克拉 石的Hallucination腕表了。前者的售价为180万美元（约合人民币1,120万元），后者的售价为5,500万美元（约合人民币3.4亿元）。

Scalfaro Watch & Jewellery's GmbH Co. & KG timepieces appeal to both watch and automobile enthusiasts by incorporating parts of some of motoring's most storied cars. The company, based in Neuhausen, Germany, has melted down parts of a Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing and a Porsche 917 to make its limited-edition watches. The parts are often donated by owners--material from a Ferrari 250 GTO owned by Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason was turned into luxury watches.

Scalfaro Watch & Jewellery制造的GmbH Co. & KG腕表吸引了腕表爱好者和汽车爱好者的目光，因为历史上最具传奇色彩的一些汽车的配件被融合进了这款腕表的制作材料中。这家总部位于德国诺伊豪森(Neuhausen)的公司将一辆梅赛德斯-奔驰(Mercedes-Benz) 300 SL Gullwing和一辆保时捷(Porsche) 917的零件融化后制成了限量款腕表。用以制表的汽车零件往往是车主捐献的——平克·弗洛伊德(Pink Floyd)乐队的鼓手尼克·马森(Nick Mason)捐献的一辆法拉利(Ferrari)250 GTO就被用于打造奢华腕表。

The company, whose watches cost from between EUR4,000 and EUR10,000 ($5,500-$13,800), works with the engineers who designed the cars. 'For our customers it is a way of expressing their passion for the car,' said company co-founder Alexander Kuhnle, 'Our watches tell a story. They contain the DNA of the cars and their engineers.'

Scalfaro与参与上述汽车设计的工程师展开了合作，该品牌腕表的售价从4,000欧元至10,000欧元不等（约合人民币34,500元至人民币86,200元）。该公司的联合创始人亚历山大·库恩勒(Alexander Kuhnle)表示：“对我们的顾客来说，这是他们表达自己对汽车的热情的方式。我们的腕表会讲故事。在它们身上蕴含着这些汽车与打造这些汽车的工程师的DNA。”

Some watchmakers take a more natural approach. Italy's Lowell srl uses mahogany, pine and a host of other woods to make what it calls environmentally friendly watches that cost between EUR300 and EUR400. The company uses plastic from recycled bottles for the straps, it builds the cases out of wood from a furniture factory.

一些钟表商在材料选取上更加追求自然。意大利钟表商Lowell Srl选用了桃花心木、松木以及多种其他木材制成了该公司所称的环保型手表，这些手表的售价为300欧元至400欧元（约合人民币2590元至人民币3450元）。该公司选用塑料瓶回收制成的塑料作为腕表表带的材料，并用来自一家家具厂的木料做成了腕表的表盒。

'Stainless steel watches are everywhere,' said Andrea Rovatti, the marketing director. 'Not many people make wooden watches.'

Lowell Srl的营销总监安德里亚·罗瓦提(Andrea Rovatti)称：“不锈钢表比比皆是。制作木表的商家可不多。”

Hublot, owned by France's LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, is creating new materials to distinguish its wristwatches from the pack.

法国酩悦·轩尼诗-路易·威登集团(LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA)旗下的品牌宇舶(Hublot)正在打造能够使自己的腕表与众不同的新材料。

Its Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, which costs nearly 32,000 Swiss francs ($36,000), uses a blend of ceramic and 24-carat gold, an amalgam that carries gold's luster but is resistant to scratches. The company also launched a 150,000-franc watch earlier this year with a dial made from osmium, an extremely shiny metal from the same family as platinum.

宇舶的Big Bang法拉利魔力金表(Ferrari Magic Gold)采用了陶瓷与24K金的复合材料，这种材质不仅能够彰显出黄金的奢华，还具有防刮特性。这款腕表的售价接近32,000瑞士法郎（约合人民币226,000元）。今年早些时候，宇舶还推出了一款售价为150,000瑞士法郎（约合人民币106万元）的锇表盘腕表，锇属于铂族金属，颜色极其绚丽。

'We don't want to repeat the past,' said Chief Executive Ricardo Guadalupe. 'We want to make the watches of today with technology that didn't exist before.'

宇舶首席执行长里卡多·瓜达卢佩(Ricardo Guadalupe)表示：“我们不愿复制历史。我们希望用前所未有的科技来打造今天的腕表。”