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爱马仕新款丝巾诠释色彩精髓

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爱马仕新款丝巾诠释色彩精髓

One of the art world's most coveted accessories this summer is a limited-edition Hermes scarf by Hiroshi Sugimoto.

今年夏季艺术世界最令人眼热的饰品之一当属杉本博司(Hiroshi Sugimoto)为法国奢侈品品牌爱马仕(Hermes)设计的限量版丝巾。

'I believe that art can be wearable,' says the contemporary artist, who based his line on a long-running project of his called 'Couleurs de l'Ombre,' or 'Colors of Shadow,' that was inspired by Isaac Newton's studies of color.

这位当代艺术家说,“我相信艺术可以穿上身。”他是根据一个做了很长时间的项目设计出这个丝巾系列的,该项目名为“影子的颜色”(Couleurs de l'Ombre),灵感源自牛顿(Isaac Newton)对颜色的研究。

Mr. Sugimoto created 20 multicolored designs for Hermes, which offers seven of each. Since mid-June, when the French luxury brand unveiled the 140-centimeter-square scarves at Art Basel, it has been selling them online for 7,000 (about $8,820). Two of the styles have already sold out.

杉本博司为爱马仕设计了20款彩色丝巾,每款限量发售七条。6月中旬爱马仕在巴塞尔艺术博览会(Art Basel)上推出了这批140厘米长的方巾,官网售价7,000欧元(约合8,820美元)。其中有两款现在已经卖完了。

In Asia, Hermes plans to kick off a 'Couleurs de l'Ombre' show in Tokyo in November, followed by Singapore in January, in conjuction with Art Stage Singapore. The two cities have strong followings for Hermes's label as well as Mr. Sugimoto, who is best known for his photography-based work.

在亚洲地区,爱马仕计划于11月在东京举行名为“影子的颜色”的展示会,随后将于明年1月份在新加坡与“艺术登陆新加坡”(Art Stage Singapore)博览会合作举行展览。东京和新加坡这两座城市都有大批爱马仕品牌和杉本博司的拥趸。杉本博司以创作基于摄影的作品而享有盛誉。

The collaboration is the third and most successful of a series of initiatives with Hermes and artists, including the late painter Josef Albersin 2008 and conceptual artist Daniel Burenin 2010.

这是爱马仕与艺术家的第三次合作,也是历次合作中最成功的一次。在此之前,爱马仕分别在2008年和2010年与已故画家阿伯斯(Josef Albers)及概念派艺术家布伦(Daniel Buren)开展过合作。

Mr. Sugimoto, whose work is included in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Artin New York and Tate Gallery in London, said that he agreed to the project after Hermes heir and artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas visited him in Tokyo a few years ago. Mr. Sugimoto showed him a floor-to-ceiling-height crystal prism that he installed in his studio after 10 years of meticulous planning and design. Engrossed by the way light shone through the facets and projected colors onto his white walls, 'I proposed to him to transpose the colors onto Hermes silk scarves,' Mr. Sugimoto said.

杉本博司的作品在纽约大都会艺术博物馆(Metropolitan Museum of Art)和伦敦泰特美术馆(Tate Gallery)都有收藏。杉本博司说,爱马仕继承人、艺术总监迪马(Pierre-Alexis Dumas)几年前到东京拜访了他,之后他同意与爱马仕开展项目合作。杉本博司给迪马看了一个下及地板、上及天花板的透明棱镜,这是他经过10年的精心规划和设计后在自己的工作室里安装的。杉本博司说,他对光通过琢面照射的方式以及投射在白 上的色彩很着迷,因此“我建议迪马把这些颜色运用在爱马仕的丝巾设计上。”

Color has long fascinated Mr. Sugimoto. In 2009 and 2010, working on the 'Couleurs' project, he recalled waking up at 5:30 a.m. to capture Tokyo's morning light with an old Polaroid.

杉本博司长期以来一直对色彩非常着迷。2009年和2010年期间杉本博司在做一个名为“色彩”(Couleurs)的项目,他记得当时自己每天早晨五点半起床,用一台旧的宝丽来相机(Polaroid)捕捉东京清晨的光线。

He and Mr. Dumas selected 20 images to turn into scarves. Hermes technicians spent months working with Mr. Sugimoto to interpret the 'infinite gradation' that he envisioned on silk twill with a special inkjet printer.

他和迪马挑选了20幅图片,在此基础上设计丝巾。爱马仕的技师们花了几个月的时间与杉本博司合作,以诠释他的设计构思。杉本博司的设想是,用一台特殊的喷墨打印机在真丝斜纹绸上表现“无限渐变”。

'The world is filled with countless colors, so why did natural science insist on just seven?' Mr. Sugimoto said. 'I believe you can get a truer sense of the world from those disregarded intra-colors.'

杉本博司说,“这个世界充斥着无数的色彩,为什么自然科学非要说世界上只有七种颜色呢?我相信,通过那些被人忽视的细分色彩,你可以获得对世界更真实的感知。”