为头发一掷千金 奥朗德不是一个人

When Parisians learned last week that President François Hollande paid his hairdresser more than $10,000 a month to cut his hair, a howl was heard from Montmartre to the Marais. Not since President Bill Clinton shut down two runways in 1993 for a $200 trim aboard Air Force One have the tresses of a head of state been so widely discussed. But as men’s upkeep has gone the way of female grooming — Botox, facials and waxing, you know, down there — so, too, has the high price of a haircut.

上周，巴黎人得知弗朗索瓦·奥朗德(François Hollande)总统每月付给理发师1万美元用于理发，从蒙马特高地到玛莱区，到处回荡着人们的惊叫声。1993年，比尔·克林顿(Bill Clinton)总统曾经关闭两条机场跑道，以便以200美元的价钱在空军一号上修剪发型，从那以后，一国首脑的头发还没有这样广泛地被讨论过呢。但是随着男人的保养愈来愈向女人看齐——肉毒杆菌瘦脸、美容和去毛（下面的毛，你懂的）——高价理发也不例外。

Ask Tim Rogers, a stylist at Sally Hershberger’s downtown New York studio, who charges a minimum of $400, and as much as $800, for a men’s haircut these days. He regularly flies to the Hamptons by helicopter to attend to a coterie of hedge fund managers and investment bankers. He has visited a celebrity’s home at 10 p.m. He, too, has an array of clients who go to the salon, among them the tennis champion Roger Federer and John Kennedy Schlossberg, the grandson of the president.

去问问蒂姆·罗杰斯(Tim Rogers)吧，他是莎莉·赫什伯格(Sally Hershberger)纽约下城店的发型师，近来他为男士修剪发型收取的最低价是400美元，最高可达800美元。他经常坐直升机飞往汉普顿，为对冲基金经理或投资银行家服务。他也曾晚上10点为某位名人登门服务。还有一大群客户定期去他的沙龙，其中包括网球冠军罗杰·费德勒(Roger Federer)，以及肯尼迪总统的外孙约翰·肯尼迪·施洛斯伯格(John Kennedy Schlossberg)。

“I maintain that men’s prices should be the same as women’s,” Mr. Rogers said last week in an interview from his home in Connecticut.

“我坚持男人的收费应该和女人相同，”上周罗杰斯在康涅狄格家中接受采访时说。

Men, he said, are often more demanding than women. “The requirement is consistency,” he said. “You have to be available anytime, anywhere.” Even if that means being on call 24 hours a day. “There is never a bad time for them,” he said of his clients. “And everything has a price.”

他说，男人的要求经常比女人还多。“他们的要求是持续性，”他说。“你得随时随地都能为他们服务。”哪怕这意味着一天24小时随叫随到。“对于他们来说，永远没有不合适的时间，”他说起自己的客户们。“这一切都是要花钱的。”

The star stylist Frédéric Fekkai raised eyebrows in the late 1990s when he started charging women $300 for a cut. By the mid-2000s, he was supplanted by Ms. Hershberger, famous for the $600 shaggy mop that defined Meg Ryan’s carefree style at the time. But it is only in recent years that the cost for a man’s haircut has rivaled its feminine counterpart.

20世纪90年代，明星发型师弗里德里克·菲凯(Frédéric Fekkai)为女性理发时，一次收取300美元费用，曾经令人大为惊讶。到2005年左右，他的风头被赫什伯格所取代。她最出名的是为梅格·瑞安(Meg Ryan)修剪了一个蓬乱的蘑菇头，打造了她当时那种无忧无虑的形象，价格是600美元。但是直到近年来，男人打理发型的价格才开始和女人们并驾齐驱。

Now, in New York, it’s not uncommon for a haircut at a top salon to cost $300. And that doesn’t include highlights, straightening or silken glosses. Martial Vivot, a former Parisian who founded Salon Pour Hommes in 2008, charges $320 for one of his signature cuts. Recently, he said, he saw a client bagging groceries at the Whole Foods in Columbus Circle. “I felt like, ‘Oh, wow,’” he said. “I wondered if he could afford it.”

如今在纽约，去顶级美发沙龙理发花上300美元，并不稀奇。这还不包括挑染、烫直或润丝亮泽。来自巴黎的马夏·维沃(Martial Vivot)在2008年创立了“男仕沙龙”(Salon Pour Hommes)。他的招牌剪发样式之一要价320美元。马夏说，最近看到他一个顾客在哥伦布圆环的全食超市给人打包货品。“我的感觉就像是：哇！”他说。“他怎么能负担得了我们的服务？”

Lakshman Achuthan, the chief operations officer of the Economic Cycle Research Institute, has his short hair groomed by April Barton, famous for the choppy locks of downtown rock ’n’ rollers. He pays slightly less than her regular $300 rate, he said, because he visits every four weeks or so. “I’m as far away from Hollande as can be,” he said. “I don’t consider myself a flashy spender.”

拉克什曼·阿楚坦是经济周期研究所的首席营运官，他的理发师是艾普莉尔·巴顿(April Barton)，能剪一手市中心摇滚乐手般的多层次发型。阿楚坦付的钱比巴顿常规的300美元价格略低，因为他每四个星期左右就会去理发，他说。“我和奥朗德完全不一样，”他说，“我不认为自己是一个浮夸的大款。”

He has been a client since the 1990s and said he seeks Ms. Barton’s advice as much as the snip of her scissors. “Ten years ago she said, ‘You are losing your hair,’” he explained one recent afternoon, noting that there is much less now to cut. “She said, ‘As long as you keep it clean and don’t gain any weight, you’ll be fine.’”

阿楚坦说他从90年代开始就是巴顿的客人了，而他对于巴顿的建议和对她的理发技术一样看重。“10年前她对我说：‘你开始掉头发了。’”阿楚坦在最近一天的下午解释道，同时指出自己现在的头发少多了。“她说：‘只要你保持头发清洁、别发福，就没事。’”

Mr. Achuthan is a frequent guest on television, which means he must always be camera-ready. “I think it would be easy for someone who has short hair to do a buzz cut,” he said. “But like every New Yorker, we are jammed up and don’t want to have something go wrong.”

阿楚坦常上电视，这意味着他必须时时保持能上镜的状态。“我想，留短发的人推个寸头应该很简单吧，”他说。“但我跟每个纽约客一样，每天忙乱不堪，不想出任何差错。”

Ms. Barton said that, while there is a boom in high-end barbershops, men with longer or unruly hair often fare better with more instruction. “Most barbers don’t seem to be artful stylists,” she said. She has schooled investment bankers in how to use root concealer to cover gray. Last week, she had a client who paid $670 for a cut, straightening and toning to replenish color. And that didn’t include products and a hefty tip. “The type of guys who pay this are technology entrepreneurs,” she said.

巴顿说，虽然高端理发厅正在兴起，不过蓄长发或有着一头乱发的男士，往往还是需要一些指导才会更好。“多数理发师似乎都不是娴熟的造型师，”她说。她曾经教导一位投资银行家用发根遮瑕笔掩饰灰发。上周她有位客人花了670美元做了个造型，把头发拉直、发色染得更丰润。这还没算上产品以及慷慨的小费。“会这么花钱的人都是些科技界的企业家。”她说。

Mr. Rogers, of Sally Hershberger, said that Mr. Federer, who sees a number of stylists worldwide, has a relaxed attitude compared with other clients. “It’s much more about what Mirka wants,” he said, referring to Mr. Federer’s wife. “He doesn’t want his hair to fall in his eyes.” Mr. Federer, he said, “loves his hair. And I love him.”

莎莉‧赫什伯格发廊的罗杰斯说，在世界各地都有造型师的费德勒比其他客户更随和些。“更多是看米尔卡(Mirka)的喜好，”他指的是费德勒的太太。“他只要头发不会扫进眼睛里就好。”罗杰斯说，费德勒“很喜欢自己的头发。我很喜欢他。”

But isn’t $10,000 a month for a hairdresser, to put it bluntly, a little ridiculous? For decades, scores of Goldman Sachs bankers have had their hair cut by Salvatore Anzalone, an Italian barber with a salon in the lobby of the nearby Conrad Hotel. He charges $30 for a dry cut. (A shampoo is $7 extra.)

不过我们还是直说吧：给一位理发师每月1万美元的薪水，是不是太荒唐了？数十年来，许多在高盛(Goldman Sachs)工作的银行业人士都让萨尔瓦多‧安萨隆(Salvatore Anzalone)剪头发，这位意大利籍理发师在邻近高盛总部的康莱德酒店(Conrad Hotel)大堂里有间发廊，干剪一次收费30美元。（洗头加收7美元。）

Not so, Mr. Vivot said. “France is the capital of fashion, and he is the president of the country,” he said of Mr. Hollande. The hairdresser is on call, like a doctor. “Maybe if he was in Korea, he’d get a flattop,” he said.

这并不荒唐，维沃表示。“法国是全球时尚之都，他又是那个国家的总统，”他谈到奥郎德时这么说。奥朗德的理发师就像医生一样要随时待命。“也许，如果他是韩国总统的话，理个平头就得了。”他说。

Robin Capili, a stylist at Sally Hershberger who trained at a barbershop (and who charges a relatively more affordable $200), said he’d never spend $10,000 a month. “I’d invest in property,” he said. “A condo maybe.”

罗宾‧卡比利(Robin Capili)是另一位在莎莉‧赫什伯格工作的发型师，曾在一个理发店学艺（他收费200美元，相对便宜些）。他说自己绝对不会为理发花上每月1万美元。“我会拿去投资房地产，”他说。“买间公寓什么的。”

One of his clients, Drew O’Connell, who lives in Dallas, said that $800 would be a reach, too. But after he tallied up the flight to New York every six weeks (about $400) and other costs, he laughed. “I don’t know,” he said. “I just don’t want to think about it.”

住在达拉斯的德鲁‧欧康奈尔(Drew O'Connell)是卡比利的顾客。他也认为，800美元就算是高的了。不过在计算了每六周飞往纽约一次的成本（大约400美元）与其他开销之后，他笑了。“我不知道啦，”他说。“我不愿去想它。”

At one point, Ms. Barton said that she would have liked to style the Republican presidential nominee, Donald J. Trump. But now, she said, “I don’t want to see him.”

巴顿说她曾想过给共和党总统候选人特朗普做造型。但现在她说：“我不想见到他。”

Mr. Trump devoted a section of his book “Trump: How to Get Rich” to “The Art of the Hair,” where he laid out his hair-care philosophy. If he goes bald, he wrote, he would get a toupee. “I’ve never said my hair is my strongest point,” he said.

特朗普的书《特朗普：如何致富》中有一个章节叫作“头发的艺术”。其中，他解释了自己的护发哲学。他写道，如果他有天秃顶了，他会弄一个假发。“我从来没说过头发是我的强项。”他说。

It is unlikely he’ll be visiting Ms. Barton anytime soon.

未来他也不太可能会光顾巴顿的生意了。