酒庄音乐会摩天轮 时报带你玩转西雅图

Advice to visit Seattle’s Pike Place Market may border on cliché — but for a good reason.

来西雅图要去派克市场(Pike Place)，这个建议简直有点俗气了——不过还是值得的。

Whether you’re visiting Washington’s seaside city for vacation or just stopping by en route to and from the coming Sasquatch music festival, Pike Place is an easy catch-all destination for shopping, eating and just plain walking around, said Kirk Johnson, The New York Times’s Seattle bureau chief for the past three years.

过去三年一直担任《纽约时报》西雅图分社社长的柯克·约翰逊(Kirk Johnson)说，不管你是专程前来度假，抑或是去参加即将到来的“大脚怪”(Sasquatch)音乐节，往来途中在此停留，只要来到西雅图这座华盛顿州的海滨城市，派克市场都是轻松享受购物、美食与散心的一站式好去处。

“Almost any day of the week, especially on the weekend, it’s a crazy fun scene of people shopping,” Mr. Johnson said. “There’s also pretty good food.” He recommends wandering into whatever place — especially a hole in the wall — catches your eye.

“一周里的任何一天，特别是周末，在这里购物都非常棒，”约翰逊说。“美食也相当不错。”他还说，走进任何地方闲逛，都能让你目不暇接——特别是墙壁上的一个大洞。

There is one specific restaurant Mr. Johnson likes: the Pink Door, which has no signage and can be found only by its rosy entrance. “It’s creative, interesting Italian,” he said. “In the summer they get a lot of great fresh vegetables and probably have the best tomato bruschetta I’ve had.”

约翰逊特别喜欢一个名叫“粉红门”(the Pink Door)的饭馆，它门口没有标识，只能靠玫红色的入口找到它。“是很有创意，很美味的意大利菜，”他说，“夏天有很多新鲜蔬菜，番茄烤面包片可能是我生平吃过最棒的。”

He also recommends the nearby Pioneer Square, the oldest neighborhood in Seattle. Its historic architecture has charm, and the area isn’t bad for a lunch break, he said. The clear favorite here is Salumi — which, as the name suggests, is known for its cuRed meats. Mr. Johnson did warn, however, that it’s necessary to plan for the fact that the restaurant has a long line as soon as it opens.

他还推荐附近的先锋广场(Pioneer Square)，这是西雅图最古老的社区。他说，不但历史建筑非常迷人，来吃吃午饭也不错。在这儿，他最心爱的餐厅当然是“萨鲁米”(Salumi)，这是意大利语“腌肉”的意思，顾名思义，这家饭馆是以加工肉制品闻名的。不过约翰逊也告诫说，“萨鲁米”从刚一开门就会排起长队。

Pioneer Square is also a portal to Seattle’s maritime world that remains alive and well. Ferry rides are a short walk away. Mr. Johnson said the ferry ride to Bainbridge Island provides “a great view of the city,” and it’s not a long ride back to the mainland.

西雅图的海运王国至今仍然繁荣活跃，先锋广场正是它的入口。轮渡码头就在步行不远的地方。约翰逊说，乘坐轮渡到班布里奇岛，沿途可以“饱览城市的美景”，然后坐船回来，路途不算遥远。

Feel free to make a day of the waterfront, Mr. Johnson said. West Seattle is home to the city’s closest semblance of a beach, and it has a boardwalk. Farther away, you could ride the Seattle Great Wheel or explore the miles of trails on foot or riding a bicycle.

约翰逊说，在海滨玩上一天也没问题。西雅图西部是这座城市最接近海滨的地方，这里有一条海滨步行道。再往远一点是西雅图摩天轮，你还可以沿小径步行或骑行几英里，进一步探索这个城市。

At some point, you may see sculptures emerging on the horizon — that would be the Olympic Sculpture Park, which is operated by the Seattle Art Museum, Mr. Johnson said, and that’s worth a visit itself. The museum, too, is “almost always interesting,” he said, “and it’s a beautiful building.”

如果看到若干雕塑从地平线上浮现出来，那你一定是来到了奥林匹克雕塑公园(Olympic Sculpture Park)，它是由西雅图艺术博物馆(Seattle Art Museum)经营的，非常值得一看，约翰逊说。博物馆也“总是那么有趣，”而且，“是一栋非常漂亮的建筑。”

People who want to experience Seattle’s nearby charms can easily do so with a bicycle, Mr. Johnson said, if they want to get away from depending on a car. He takes a ride to Chateau Ste. Michelle, a famous winery outside the city.

约翰逊说，如果访客不想依赖汽车代步，骑自行车亦可以轻松体验西雅图周边美景。他就曾经骑车探访圣密夕葡萄园(Chateau Ste. Michelle)，这是西雅图郊外一座著名的酒庄。

Starting in June, he said, Chateau Ste. Michelle hosts a summer concert series on its lawn. “If it’s a nice night, and the weather is good, it’s a really great spot,” he said. Or, if you prefer beer, Redhook Brewery & Forecasters Pub is across the street from the winery.

他说，圣密夕葡萄园每年从6月开始，都会在自家草坪上举办一系列夏日音乐会。“如果赶上一个天气凉爽的美好夏夜，那真是个办演出的好地方，”他说。如果你更爱啤酒，酒庄对面就是莱德胡克酿酒厂与福卡斯特斯酒吧(Redhook Brewery & Forecasters Pub)。

Mr. Johnson admits he still has items to check off on his own Seattle bucket list. For example, he’d like to try Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour, which follows underground passages through Seattle’s historic downtown.

约翰逊承认，西雅图还有他想玩而没玩过的地方。比如说，他还打算试试比尔·斯派德尔(Bill Speidel)的“地下之旅”(Underground Tour)，游客可以从西雅图历史上的市中心的地下通行。

The Travel section has you covered for anything Mr. Johnson might have missed — including a 36 Hours guide to the city. And because we aren’t shying away from cliché, there’s always the Space Needle.

“旅游”板块中还有其他约翰逊先生可能并未尽述的内容——包括西雅图36小时旅游。另外我们不怕俗套，太空针塔(Space Needle)也别忘了去。