纽伦堡纳粹遗址 如何保留一段历史的疤痕
NUREMBERG, Germany — In this city, the rallying point for Hitler, is the largest piece of real estate bequeathed by the Nazis, and a burden only increasing with time.
德国纽伦堡——在这座城市，希特勒曾经的集会地，也是纳粹德国留下的最大一块地标，正随着时间的推移成为一个愈发沉重的负担。
First comes the sheer physical size: a parade ground bigger than 12 football fields. A semicircular Congress Hall that dwarfs any structure at Lincoln Center. Great Street, more than one-and-a-half miles long, with no structures on either side — a modern Appian Way where the storm troopers strutted between the old Nuremberg of Albrecht Dürer and the rallies idolizing the Führer.
首先是它实际的尺度：比12个足球场还大的游行场地；半圆形的国会大厅让林肯中心(Lincoln Center)的任何建筑都相形见绌；中间的大道长度超过1.5英里，两侧都没有建筑——它像是现代版的亚壁古道(Appian Way)，让突击步兵踏着正步，从阿尔布雷希特·丢勒(Albrecht Dürer)笔下的老纽伦堡，一直走向崇敬元首的集会。
Then there are its troubled history and the far stickier question of what to do with it. “These are not simple memorials,” said Mathias Pfeil, chief curator of historic sites in Bavaria, “because they symbolize a time we can only wish had never happened.”
其次是它麻烦的历史，以及一个远更棘手的问题：如何对待这些建筑？“它们不仅仅是历史遗迹，”巴伐利亚历史遗迹首席策展人马蒂亚斯·菲尔(Mathias Pfeil)说，“因为它们象征着一个我们宁愿没有发生过的时代。”
As Germany copes with mass migration and blows to its economy, like the Volkswagen scandal, and to its pride, like the allegations it paid bribes to secure its hosting of the 2006 World Cup, it also continues to deal with vestiges of its problematic past. In few places are those questions more vivid than in Nuremberg.
德国面临着大规模的移民；经济受到了很大冲击，如大众汽车(Volkswagen)的丑闻；该国的自豪感也受到了打击，如申办2006年世界杯(World Cup)时通过行贿选中的指控。与此同时，它还需要直面丑恶的过去留下的难题。最能生动地展示这些问题的地方，恐怕就是纽伦堡了。
Should public money be spent to preserve these crumbling sites? Is controlled decay an option for anything associated with the Nazis? Or have Hitler and his architect, Albert Speer, locked future generations into a devilish pact that compels Germans not only to teach the history of the Thousand Year Reich the Nazis proclaimed here but also to adapt it for each new era?
能否花费公共资金保护这些摇摇欲坠的遗址？与纳粹相关的任何东西，可以让它在受控的情况下慢慢颓败吗？难道是说希特勒和他的建筑师阿尔贝特·施佩尔(Albert Speer)让未来的世世代代都陷入了一个魔鬼契约，强迫德国人不仅要学习那段纳粹在这里宣布建立“千年帝国”(Thousand Year Reich)的历史，还要让它因时而异地适应时代？
Several dozen experts — and some curious citizens — gathered for a weekend recently to ponder such questions at a forum titled “Preserve. For what?”
最近的一个周末，数十名专家连同一些好奇的市民，在一个题为“为何保存？”的论坛上思考了这样的问题。
The forum kicked off several weeks of events intended to stir citywide discussion before a decision next year on whether to expand existing exhibits and pointers across the four-square-mile site. Participants also pondered whether and how to use apps and other modern techniques to conjure the Nazi universe for present and future generations with no witnesses left to consult.
这个论坛开启了为期数周的活动，目的是在明年做出一项决定之前，在全市范围内掀起广泛的讨论。那个决定涉及的问题是，要不要在这块四平方英里大小的遗址周围，扩大现有的展览和指示牌规模。与会者还讨论了能否使用app或其他现代技术，向今天的这代人，以及未来再无目击者可以询问的后世，展示纳粹的那个空间，如果能的话，又该如何展示。
The forum included speakers like Mayor Ulrich Maly, who argued that there was a clear duty to ensure that Germans and foreign tourists could begin to imagine what unfolded here. For example, the crumbling but still imposing Zeppelin tribune, or grandstand, where the Führer and his henchmen drank in the choreographed adoration from the masses assembled below, features the only surviving lectern where Hitler spoke.
论坛的演讲者包括市长乌尔里希·马里(Ulrich Maly)，他提出，确保德国人和外国游客能够想象这里发生过的事情，是一项责任。例如，齐柏林(Zeppelin)讲坛虽然日渐颓圮但是仍然宏伟。元首和他的左膀右臂曾站在那里，陶醉地看着下面的群众，整齐划一地表达崇敬。这是当今仅存的一座希特勒讲过话的讲台。
One of the forum-related events is an exhibit that traces the Parteitagsgel渀搀攀, where party congresses were held, since United States troops reached it in 1945 and blew up the towering stone eagle and swastika atop the Zeppelin tribune.
与论坛相关的活动包括一场记录纳粹党大会会场(Parteitagsgel渀搀攀)变化的展览。展览中的历史始于美军于1945年抵达这里，并炸毁齐柏林讲坛顶端高耸的石鹰和卐字之时。
Since that decisive move to obliterate a powerful Nazi symbol, the site has been many things to many people. In 1955, the evangelist Billy Graham preached and rallied thousands. The Sudeten Germans, ethnic Germans expelled in 1945 from their ancestral lands to the east, rallied here that year as well. Their rally, noted the exhibit curator Alexander Schmidt, now looks and sounds like a latter-day Nazi gathering.
自从那个清除重要纳粹符号的决定性举动做出之后，这个地点对许多人具有了不同的意义。1955年，福音派传教士比利·格雷厄姆(Billy Graham)在此布道，聚集了成千上万的听众。那一年，苏台德人也曾在这里举行集会。苏台德人是德意志人的一支，1945年被从东面世世代代居住的土地上赶走。展览的策展人亚历山大·施密特(Alexander Schmidt)表示，他们的集会今天看起来听起来都像是纳粹集会的重现。
In 1978, a year before The Who, Bob Dylan gave a famous concert, playing “Masters of War” and noting, “What a pleasure it is to sing it in this place.”
1978年，鲍勃·迪伦比谁人乐队早一年开了一场著名的演唱会，表演了歌曲《战争大师》(Masters of War)并说到，“在这个地方唱这首歌真是太满足了！”
In 1995, Billy Joel and his half brother, Alexander, a classical musician, performed here, honoring their father and grandfather, who came from Nuremberg and fled the Nazis.
1995年，比利·乔(Billy Joel)和他同父异母的弟弟，古典音乐家亚历山大(Alexander)在这里表演，纪念他们来自纽伦堡逃离纳粹的父亲和祖父。
Mr. Schmidt, a historian at the museum that opened here in 2001, showed some stills from an iconic early 1960s German documentary, “Brutality in Stone.”
施密特是一位历史学家，在纽伦堡2001年开放的博物馆内工作。他展示了60年代初一部标志性的德国纪录片《石中的残暴》(Brutality in Stone)的一些剧照，。
“These buildings are not harmless,” he emphasized. “They have to do with the Nazis.”
“这些建筑并非无关紧要，”他强调说。“它们和纳粹有关系。”
Ulrich Herbert, a historian and professor at the Albert Ludwigs University in Freiburg, said the site was important not least because “this is a place where you can understand how the Nazis succeeded in winning people over.” It was here, he noted, that the party staked its claim to absolute power “with an intimidating production that enshrined a cult of the Führer.”
赫伯特教授是弗莱堡艾伯特·路德维格兹(Albert Ludwigs)大学的历史学家，他说这个遗址很重要，因为“在这个地方，你可以了解纳粹怎样成功地赢得了人们的拥戴。”他指出，正是在这里，纳粹党运用“令人惊惧的群众活动将他们的元首推上神台”，并据此宣示了对绝对权力的占有。
That “intimidating production” was chronicled and partly fashioned by Leni Riefenstahl in her 1935 documentary, “Triumph of the Will,” filmed here at the previous year’s Nazi party congress.
那种“令人恐惧的群众活动”由莱妮·里芬斯塔尔(Leni Riefenstahl)参与制作并记录在她的1935年的纪录片《意志的胜利》中，该片在这里拍摄，记录的是此前一年的纳粹党代表大会。
Her glorification of Hitler — right from the opening when he flies through clouds, descending on Nuremberg like a god from the heavens — skipped features now noted in the city’s museums: the beer-swilling squalor in the city and parade grounds, and the anti-Semitic race laws that Hitler signed during the 1935 party congress here and thus bear Nuremberg’s name.
她美化了希特勒。在影片开始，希特勒飞过云层，像一位来自天堂的神袛降落在纽伦堡。但这部影片跳过了一些片段，现存于该市博物馆的相关记录显示了城市和阅兵场中散发啤酒气息的肮脏角落，以及希特勒在1935年党代表大会时签署的反犹太人种族法律，即以该市命名的《纽伦堡法案》。
And naturally, Ms. Riefenstahl had no hint of the justice that would finally be served here, at the Nuremberg war trials started in late 1945, on men like Hermann Goering, Hitler’s second in command.
当然，在里芬斯塔尔那儿无迹可寻的正义，最终在1945年底开始的纽伦堡审判中，在希特勒副手赫尔曼·戈林(Hermann Goering)这样人的身上得以伸张。
Courtroom 600, where those trials unfolded, is now part of another museum, across town. Featuring among other treasures the statements of the lead United States prosecutor, Justice Robert H. Jackson, the museum traces a direct arc to present tribunals of international justice in The Hague.
600号法庭是那些审判进行的地点，现在属于当地另一家博物馆的一部分，珍贵的收藏中包括主要的美国检察官、法官罗伯特H.杰克逊(Robert H. Jackson)的陈述稿。这家博物馆绘出了一道弧线，将600号法庭和现在位于海牙的国际法庭连在了一起。
Up to 250,000 people, half of them foreigners, now visit the museum at the site of the party congresses each year. Northern Bavarians in their early teens pay compulsory school visits, experiencing what Mr. Herbert calls “the German peculiarity” of discovering and taking responsibility for the Nazi past, making being German “different than being Swiss.”
现在每年有多达25万人参观位于纳粹党国会遗址的博物馆，其中有一半是外国人。北巴伐利亚十几岁的孩子必须跟着学校参观，体验赫伯特所说的发现以及对纳粹历史负责的“德国特色”，这使得德国人“有别于瑞士人”。
How modern the memorials and museums here should be was one point of heated discussion among the academics. A British historian, Neil Gregor of the University of Southampton in England, who has chronicled Nazi Nuremberg, argued hardest for contemporary themes, such as refugees, and making the debate more multiethnic.
纪念碑和博物馆应该多现代曾一度是学术界讨论的一个热点。英国南安普敦大学的历史学家尼尔·格莱格(Neil Gregor)曾对纳粹时期的纽伦堡进行记录，他坚决主张加入难民问题等当代主题，并使辩论变得更加民族多元化。
Others wanted the focus firmly on the Third Reich.
其他人想要坚定地把重点放在第三帝国上。
Nurembergers younger than 25, who have grown up in a united Germany with no memory of the United States troops who left here in 1994, scarcely have the same interest in or sensitivities to the Nazi structures as their parents, said Michael Husarek, a father of six who is deputy editor of the local newspaper Nürnberger Nachrichten.
25岁以下的纽伦堡人，在一个统一的德国长大，对美国军人1994年的撤离没有记忆，他们鲜有其父母对纳粹建筑的兴趣和敏感度，迈克尔·哈萨瑞克(Michael Husarek)说。他是六个孩子的父亲，也是当地报纸《纽伦堡新闻》(Nürnberger Nachrichten)的副主编。
“For the young, they don’t have the same fears of contact with, say, the parade ground,” he said. “It has always been part of their lives.”
“对于年轻人来说，他们没有同样的与阅兵场联系在一起的恐惧，”他说。“阅兵场一直都是他们生活的一部分。”
