时尚界新风尚 名人古董装成抢手货

Could the most lucrative investment portfolio you own be hiding in your closet? Important fashion items from the 20th century are fetching record prices at auction, and estimates at a number of high-profile sales this autumn look set to push prices even higher.

最佳投资组合可能是自己的压箱底服装吗？20世纪有重要纪念意义的时装在拍卖会上不断拍出令人咋舌的高价，可以预见今秋很多场引人瞩目的拍卖定会使竞价更上一层楼。

In 2011, a gold commodities trader paid $1.8m for Michael Jackson’s jacket from the “Thriller” video at a sale by Los Angeles-based entertainment auction house Julien’s. Darren Julien, the house’s chief executive, says investors and hedge funds are looking at fashion as a way to diversify from other hard goods, such as art, as fashion “will turn a profit over five years and shows wealth and status in the office while it appreciates”.

2011年，在洛杉矶“明星拍卖行”朱利安拍卖行(Julien’s)举行的一场拍卖会上，迈克尔?杰克逊(Michael Jackson)演唱《颤栗》(Thriller)时所穿的夹克衫被某位黄金大宗交易商以180万美元拍走。拍卖行CEO达伦?朱利安(Darren Julien)说投资商和对冲基金把时装视为艺术品等耐用商品拓展出去的领域，因为古董时装“五年后就会赢利。一旦升值，挂在办公室里能显现自己的财富及身份”。

Celia Joicey, head of London’s Fashion and Textile Museum, which experienced an 87 per cent year-on-year increase in visitors to August 2013, says: “Fashion was given a value the minute it went into the museum space, with prices rising alongside the soaring visitor figures.”

伦敦时装与纺织品博物馆(Fashion and Textile Museum)馆长西莉亚?乔西(celiajoicey)说：“时装一旦被博物馆收藏，价值立马突现，参观人数飚升的同时，价位也随之水涨船高。”截止2013年8月，伦敦时装与纺织品博物馆的参观人数逐年增长了87%。

Dilys Blum, senior curator at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which has a 30,000-strong fashion collection that includes Grace Kelly’s wedding dress, says: “There’s not that much 18th- and 19th-century material around now because the pieces are more difficult to find. It’s all about 20th-century couture and wearable fashion because this is where the money is.”

费城艺术博物馆(Philadelphia Museum of Art)资深策展人迪利斯?布洛姆(Dilys Blum)说：“如今存世的18、19世纪的时装物件很少，原因是它们越来越难以淘到。博物馆收藏的几乎多为20世纪的时装，因为它们才是投资价值所在。”

Japanese designers from the 1980s such as Comme des Gar?ons and Yohji Yamamoto are must-buy names now, say industry insiders. They will be “unaffordable for individuals in 10 years’ time”, says fashion auctioneer Kerry Taylor, whose fashion and textiles sale kicked off the international fashion auction season this month.

业内人士说，Comme des Gar?ons与山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)这些日本上世纪80年代设计师设计的时装如今成了收藏界炙手可热的抢手货。“10年之后，他们当初设计的时装价位让私人藏家望而却步”，时装拍卖商凯丽?泰勒(Kerry Taylor)说。本月，她的时装与纺织品拍卖会拉开了今冬国际时装拍卖会的序幕。

As Yves Saint Laurent muse Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain says: “In the old days a couture dress was a work of art.” Last week, she held the first of many sales of her 12,000-piece collection at Paris’s H?tel Drouot. Reported to be one of “the most beautiful private collections of haute couture in the world”, it includes everything from 1980s Azzedine Ala?a to Yves Saint Laurent from the 1960s and 1970s. “There was a huge pride in the way things were made and finished, a whole industry of skilled artisans,” she says, “but that has all gone now.”

曾是伊夫?圣?罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)御用模特的达妮埃尔(Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain)说：“礼服在过去属于艺术作品。”不久前，在巴黎杜欧宫(H?telDrouot)，她对自己收藏的12000件时装藏品举行了首场拍卖会。据报道，这是“全球私人所收藏的最漂亮高档时装”，拍品从上世纪60、70年代的伊夫?圣?罗兰时装到上世纪80年代的阿瑟丁?阿拉亚 (AzzedineAla?a)，品类齐全，应有尽有。“制作及润饰突显出无比尊贵的气息，展现了设计高手的整体行业水准，”她说，“但这一切如今已一去不复返了。”

Lots at New York’s Augusta Auctions on November 14 include a shimmering pale green sequinned and beaded 1920s party dress ($400-$600 estimate); a bejewelled silk satin Christian Dior 1952 Palmyre dress (￡26,000-￡28,000); a 1968-69 Yves Saint Laurent floor-length gown adorned with this autumn’s must-have ostrich feathers (