一家在反恐战火中重生的烤肉餐厅

BAGHDAD — Long before Fallujah was known the world over for deadly jihadis, it was known all over Iraq for its kebab — fatty lamb, ground and mixed with onion, grilled on a skewer over an open fire and served with a pinch of sumac — at a joint called Haji Hussein.

巴格达——在费卢杰以杀人不眨眼的圣战者闻名于世很久之前，就以哈吉侯赛因(Haji Hussein)餐厅里的烤肉闻名伊拉克了——把肥美的羊肉切成小块，拌上洋葱，串成串儿后用明火烤，上桌时再撒点儿苏麻克。

Everyone, it seemed, ate at Haji Hussein: locals, soldiers, tourists and businessmen traveling the Baghdad-to-Amman highway that runs through the city. Starting in 2003, journalists covering the war ate there, and so did U.S. soldiers and the insurgents who fought them, perhaps even at the same time.

似乎人人都在哈吉侯赛因餐厅吃过东西：当地人、士兵、游客，以及经由穿城而过的高速公路往返于巴格拉和安曼之间的商人。战地记者们从2003年开始在那儿用餐；此外还有美国士兵，以及对抗美国士兵的叛军，两者甚至有可能同时在那儿吃饭。

The restaurant was damaged by bombs multiple times, and entirely flattened once by a U.S. airstrike. It was rebuilt, embraced as a symbol of Fallujah’s own rebirth after years of war, only to be abandoned when the city fell to the Islamic State more than two years ago.

该餐厅多次因遭到轰炸而受损，并在美军的一次空袭中被夷为平地。重建后，它被视为历经连年战乱的费卢杰获得新生的标志，直到那座城市在两年多以前落入伊斯兰国(Islamic State)之手，它才被废弃。

Now the much-loved kebab restaurant has been reborn again, this time in Baghdad, in a modern, three-story building in the upscale Mansour neighborhood.

现在，这家备受喜爱的烤肉餐厅已再度重生，这次是在巴格达的高档社区曼苏尔的一栋三层现代建筑里。

A new entrant on the capital’s thriving restaurant scene, it offers great kebab and a dose of nostalgia for a time when Baghdadis thought nothing of zipping off to Fallujah for lunch at Haji Hussein.

作为欣欣向荣的巴格达餐饮业的后来者，它既供应烤肉，又为人们提供怀恋往昔的场地——曾几何时，拔腿前往费卢杰，去哈吉侯赛因餐厅吃午饭，对巴格达人而言是稀松平常的事情。

“This was the craft of my grandfather,” said Mohammed Hussein, who runs the business that has been in his family since the 1930s, when Fallujah was a city of agriculture, smuggling and tribal traditions, not a jihadi haven.

“这门手艺是我祖父留下来的，”哈吉侯赛因餐厅的经营者穆罕默德·侯赛因(Mohammed Hussein)说。他的家族从1930年代开始经营该餐厅，当时的费卢杰还是一个以农业和走私为主，奉行部落传统的城市，而非圣战者的天堂。

The restaurant, shiny and well lit, is packed most nights, and patrons wait for tables — 15 to 20 minutes or so, something almost unheard-of in Iraq. There are two flat-screen televisions on the first floor, tuned to news channels reporting on the military campaign to retake Fallujah from the Islamic State.

这家熠熠生辉、光线充足的餐厅，在大多数夜晚都挤满了人，食客们等上15到20分钟时间才能有空桌子，这种情况在伊拉克几乎闻所未闻。一楼的两部平板电视被调到了新闻频道，正播放与旨在从伊斯兰国手中夺回费卢杰的战役有关的新闻。

“I can’t bear to watch the news,” Hussein said.

“我看不了这类报道，”侯赛因说。

There was one news flash recently that did not escape his notice: The Iraqi air force, like the Americans 12 years ago, announced that it had struck his restaurant site in Fallujah because leaders with the Islamic State, also known as ISIS or ISIL, were meeting there.

不久前的一条新闻消息没有逃过他的眼睛：像12年前的美国人一样，伊拉克空军宣布，袭击了他在费卢杰的餐厅，因为伊斯兰国（又称ISIS或ISIL）的头目正在那里开会。

A statement from Iraq’s Joint Operation Command appeared on the television: “Based on intelligence information about a meeting for ISIS leaders in Haji Hussein restaurant inside the center of Fallujah an airstrike was launched on the restaurant, which led to the killing of tens of ISIS terrorists.”

伊拉克联合作战司令部(Iraq’s Joint Operation Command)的一份声明出现在了电视上：“依据关于ISIS的头目在费卢杰市中心的哈吉侯赛因餐厅开会的情报，对该餐厅发动空袭，击毙了数十名ISIS恐怖分子。”

But the restaurant, Hussein said, has been deserted for 2 1/2 years.

但侯赛因说，那家餐厅早在两年半以前就被废弃了。

When Iraqi forces recently made gains inside Fallujah, people almost immediately began talking about Haji Hussein. The federal police released a combat video saying they were fighting near the restaurant, and a glimpse of the rust-colored facade showed it damaged but not destroyed. On state television, commentators expressed hope that Haji Hussein might reopen soon in Fallujah.

伊拉克政府军最近在费卢杰取得了一些战果，与此同时，人们几乎立刻开始谈论哈吉侯赛因餐厅。联邦警察发布了一个作战视频，说他们正在该餐厅附近战斗，从视频中闪现的铁锈色外立面来看，餐厅虽然受损，但并未被摧毁。国家电视台的评论员表示，希望不久后哈吉侯赛因餐厅能在费卢杰重新开业。

In 2004, the Americans bombed the restaurant based on intelligence that insurgents loyal to Abu Musab Zarqawi, the founder of al-Qaida in Iraq, the forerunner of the Islamic State, were eating there.

美国人曾在2004年依据一份情报轰炸过该餐厅。那份情报称，忠于伊拉克基地组织(al-Qaida)创始人阿布·穆萨卜·扎卡维(Abu Musab Al-Zarqawi)的叛军正在那里吃饭。该组织是伊斯兰国的前身。

This being the holy month of Ramadan, the Baghdad restaurant has been busy lately serving iftar, the evening meal to break the day’s fast. The parking lot is also a beehive of activity: a security guard checking cars for bombs; a man selling balloons to families; children begging.

时值斋月，巴格达的这家餐厅最近正忙于供应开斋饭，即打破当日斋戒的晚餐。停车场里颇为热闹：一名保安在检查汽车是否携带着炸弹；一个男人在兜售气球；一些孩子在乞讨。

As Hussein, 49, sat down to chat one recent evening, he was surrounded by bow-tied waiters — much of the staff from Fallujah now works in the new place — filling the tables with dishes of mezze, or appetizers, as diners waited to break their fast.

不久前的一个晚上，当49岁的侯赛因坐下来聊天的时候，周围满是系着领结的服务生——许多从费卢杰过来的员工目前在新餐厅工作。在食客等待开斋之际，他们把风味小吃端到桌上。

In addition to heaping platters of the famous kebab, there were dates coated with sesame paste, watermelon, hummus, cucumber and tomato salad, pickles and soup. There were some new items on the menu that were not served in Fallujah: grilled river carp, called masgoof; a Yemeni chicken-and-rice meal called mandi; and maklouba, a dish of chicken and eggplant and rice that is originally Palestinian.

除了一盘又一盘堆得满满的烤肉，还有裹着芝麻糊的海枣、西瓜、鹰嘴豆泥、黄瓜西红柿沙拉、腌菜和汤。菜单上有些新菜品是在费卢杰没有供应过的：烤鲤鱼，名为Masgouf；一种以鸡肉和米饭烹制的也门风味佳肴，名为Mandi；还有来自巴勒斯坦的以鸡肉、茄子和米饭做成的Maklouba。

As customers streamed in, Hussein tried to recall how many times his restaurant in Fallujah had been damaged or destroyed by the war.

当客人涌进门的时候，侯赛因竭力回想费卢杰的餐厅在战火中总共受损或被摧毁了多少次。

“Too many to count,” he said.

“多到数不清，”他说。

At least inside his restaurant, Iraq does not seem hopelessly divided by sect. Sunnis and Shiites break their fast at slightly different times, and as sundown approached one of the televisions was tuned to a Sunni channel, the other to Iraqiya, the channel of the Shiite-led government.

至少在他的餐厅里，伊拉克似乎并未因为教派分歧而呈现令人绝望的割裂状态。逊尼派和什叶派开斋的时间略有不同。太阳即将落山时，一部电视机调到了逊尼派电视台，另一部则调到了什叶派主导的政府设立的伊拉克国家电视台(Iraqiya)。

When the call to prayer — the signal that the day’s fast was over — went out on one, the Sunnis began eating. Fifteen minutes or so later, the Shiite customers began eating.

当召唤祈祷声——当日斋戒结束的信号——从一部电视机里传出来的时候，逊尼派开始用餐。过了15分左右，什叶派顾客开始用餐。