美容市场,男士成亮点

Maybelline’s Big Shot mascara campaign features a model with impeccable eye make-up, thick eyelashes and?.?.?.?well-groomed stubble.

美宝莲(Maybelline)的Big Shot睫毛膏广告邀请的是一位画着完美眼妆、涂着浓密睫毛还……留着有型胡须的模特。

Manny Gutierrez last month became just the second man to be chosen as the face for a make-up advertisement, the first being cosmetics aficionado James Charles, whose Instagram posts caught the eye of Covergirl last year.

上个月，曼尼?古铁雷斯(Manny Gutierrez)成为第二个被选为化妆品广告代言人的男士，第一位是化妆达人詹姆斯?查尔斯(James Charles)，去年，他在Instagram的帖子引起了Covergirl的注意。

Mr Charles, who has more than 1m Instagram followers, and Mr Gutierrez, who has 3m, believe that make-up should not be restricted to women. Make-up is “genderLESS and has no rules!”, Mr Gutierrez tells his 2m YouTube subscribers.

查尔斯在Instagram拥有超过100万的粉丝，古铁雷斯的粉丝数量高达300万。他们认为，化妆不应限于女性。古铁雷斯告诉他在YouTube上的200万订阅用户，化妆是“没有性别的，也没有任何规则！”。

That men can be the face of a global make-up brand underscores how large consumer goods companies like L’Oréal and Coty, which respectively own cosmetic brands Maybelline and Covergirl, see diversity as an increasingly powerful market. This market includes men using traditionally female cosmetics or a growing array of new products aimed at men.

男性可以成为全球化妆品牌代言人，这突显出欧莱雅(L’Oréal)和Coty（分别拥有化妆品牌美宝莲和Covergirl）等大型消费品公司，正把多样性视为一个日益强大的市场。这个市场包括使用传统女性化妆品或越来越多的男士专用新产品的男性。

It is an extension of a male grooming industry worth close to $50bn last year — with moisturisers, pomades, body hair removal products and blemish concealer populating increasing areas of physical and digital shelf space. Retail sales of male grooming products at Procter & Gamble, including its Gillette brand, are more than $11bn, while Unilever, which sells the Axe and Lynx brands, sold nearly $5bn in 2015, the latest figures available, according to Euromonitor.

这是去年规模近500亿美元的男士美容行业的延伸。保湿霜、润发油、脱毛产品以及遮瑕膏正占领越来越多的实体和数字零售货架。根据欧睿(Euromonitor)的最新数据，宝洁(Procter & Gamble)男士美容产品（包括吉列(Gillette)品牌）的零售销售额超过110亿美元，Axe和凌仕(Lynx)品牌所有者联合利华(Unilever) 2015年的男士美容产品销售额为近50亿美元。

Graeme Pitkethly, Unilever’s chief financial officer, noted on a recent earnings call that male grooming was a business he expected to grow “above the personal care average for many years to come”.

联合利华首席财务官格雷姆?皮特凯特利(Graeme Pitkethly)在最近一次业绩电话会议上指出，他预计，男士美容行业的增速将“在未来很多年超过个人护理业的平均水平”。

But sales growth in the male grooming market slowed to 3.1 per cent last year from a compound annual growth rate, or CAGR, of 5.7 per cent in the five years to 2015, according to Euromonitor.

但根据欧睿的数据，去年，男士美容市场的销售额增速降至3.1%，而在截至2015年的5年里，复合年增长率为5.7%。

Nicholas Micallef, a beauty and personal care analyst at Euromonitor, says the men’s grooming market will not match the women’s market anytime soon. “Scope for growth exists in dynamic markets such as the US, India, and Brazil in the longer-term. It is a key area for all industry players, and their focus is now to understand what motivates men to use beauty items, and what makes them comfortable to shop.”

欧睿美容和个人护理行业分析师尼古拉斯?米卡莱夫(Nicholas Micallef)表示，男士美容市场将不会很快赶上女性市场。“较长期而言，美国、印度和巴西等富有活力的市场具有增长空间。它对所有行业参与者都是关键领域，他们现在的焦点是了解促使男性使用美容产品的因素是什么，以及什么让他们在购物时感到舒服。”

Underscoring the gap between men and women, globally men’s per capita spend on grooming products was $6.50 in 2015, compared with $58.50 for women, Euromonitor says. Although that is a large gap, the boundaries separating male and female-specific products are not always clear. Some products are unisex, some men use products — such as concealer — that are found in the women’s sections of retail outlets, while some women, in Brazil for example, use men’s razors for shaving their legs.

根据欧睿的数据，全球范围内，2015年，男性人均美容产品支出为6.50美元，而女性为58.50美元，这突显出男女在这方面的差距。尽管差距很大，但男女专用产品的界限并不总是很清晰。一些产品是男女通用，一些男性使用的美容产品（例如遮瑕膏）可以在零售商店的女性柜台找到，而一些女性（例如在巴西）则使用男士剃须刀给腿部脱毛。

The slowdown in growth for male grooming products is partly explained by lacklustre economic growth, analysts say. Unlike women, who count beauty products as essential items, for many men, particularly those with families, male grooming items — with the exception of razors — more easily drop off the shopping list when money gets tight.

分析人士表示，男士美容产品增长放缓在一定程度上是因为经济增长乏力。与女性不同（女性将美容产品视为必需品），对于很多男性而言，尤其是那些有家有口的男性，在资金紧张时，男士美容产品（剃须刀除外）更容易从购物清单上删除。

Brazil, a top male grooming products market, had been a particularly bright spot, having enjoyed a 16 per cent CAGR increase in the five years to 2015. But as the nation’s economy struggles in a deep recession, growth in 2016 is estimated at 4.6 per cent to $6.79bn. In western Europe, where high youth unemployment in Mediterranean countries such as Spain persist, growth has decelerated to a 0.7 per cent rise to $12.5bn.

巴西是男士美容产品的最大市场之一，该国曾经是一个特别的亮点，在截至2015年的5年里，该行业的复合年增长率曾经高达16%。但由于该国经济陷入严重衰退，步履维艰，2016年该行业增速预计将降至4.6%，销售额67.9亿美元。在西欧，西班牙等地中海国家的年轻人失业率居高不下，男士美容产品市场的增速放缓至0.7%，销售额125亿美元。

Mr Micallef says the UK is bolstered by high income earners. They have fuelled the growth of small companies such as Beast, which sells men’s grooming products, including shampoos retailing for as much as ￡27, compared with Unilever’s Lynx brand shampoo, priced at about ￡5.

米卡莱夫表示，英国市场受到高收入者的支撑。他们促进了小公司的发展，例如销售男士美容产品的Beast，其产品包括售价高达27英镑的洗发水，而联合利华凌仕品牌洗发水的售价则为5英镑左右。

However, many lower to middle income men cannot afford such products. Andrew Snavely — founder of US online magazine Primer, which writes about practical style and grooming advice for young men — believes that this demographic is being sidelined.

然而，很多中低收入的男性买不起这种产品。美国在线杂志Primer创始人安德鲁?斯内夫利(Andrew Snavely)认为，这一人群被忽视了。该杂志为年轻男士撰写实用的穿衣和美容建议。

“Traditional men’s magazines almost completely ignore the grooming needs of the average guy,” says Mr Snavely, who says his online magazine, founded in 2008 as an alternative to established brands such as GQ and Esquire, has 1.5m monthly page views.

斯内夫利表示：“传统男士杂志几乎完全忽视了普通人的美容需求。”他表示，他的在线杂志创建于2008年，提供有别于《智族》(GQ)和《Esquire》等老牌杂志的内容，月度页面浏览量为150万。

He adds that young professional men find trial and error with products to be an expensive and time-consuming process, “especially for an aspect of life men are taught not to pay so much attention to”.

他补充称，年轻的职场男士发现，在美容产品上试错是一个代价高昂且耗时的过程，“特别是在男士们被教导不要关注很多的生活领域。”

Male grooming brands such as Unilever’s Axe has broken from its far more conservative approach to lure consumers. It has attempted to reach a more diverse audience by focusing on individuality over gender identification or sexuality. Its “Find your Magic” campaign features men of all shapes, sizes and sexualities and has generated 10m YouTube hits over the past year.

联合利华的Axe等男士美容品牌为吸引消费者，放弃了那种保守得多的策略。该品牌试图通过关注个性，而非性别认同或性别特征来触及更广泛的受众。其“发现你的魔力”(Find your Magic)广告的主角是各种体型、身材和男性特征的男士，过去一年在YouTube吸引了1000万的点击量。

The introduction of new products, such as L’Oréal’s male deodorant for shaved armpits, combined with acquisitions such as Unilever’s purchase of Dollar Shave Club, the online razor subscription service, as well as the growth of small niche companies, all point to confidence in the longer-term success of the male grooming market.

新产品的引入（例如欧莱雅的男士腋下除臭产品）、联合利华收购在线剃须刀订购服务Dollar Shave Club等并购交易，以及小型利基公司的发展都表明，人们对男士美容市场的较长期成功充满信心。

Mr Snavely says: “For the first time men actually have tailored options for their own unique grooming needs, and that’s only going to continue to expand as social perceptions of male grooming evolves.”

斯内夫利表示：“男士自己的独特美容需求第一次真正有了定制化选择，随着社会对男士美容看法的转变，这一市场将继续扩大。”