环球之旅:重走肖申克之路,消费救赎

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Richland County refers to itself, because of its character and geographical location, as the "heart of Ohio." But for a large number of visitors, it is better known as the home of perhaps the most storied prison in movie history.

里奇兰德县因其特征与地理位置，号称“俄亥俄的心脏'。但对于许多游客来说，它更为知名的身份恐怕是电影史上最传奇的监狱之乡。

Despite seven Oscar nominations, including one for best picture, "The Shawshank Redemption" — starring Tim Robbins as one (very) unfortunate accountant by the name of Andy Dufresne and Morgan Freeman as a convict named Red — barely made back its $25 million budget following its 1994 premiere. But after significant video sales and seemingly endless showings on TNT (151 hours of total televised airtime last year alone), Americans fell in love with the TV equivalent of a houseguest who won’t leave.

《肖申克的救赎》(Shawshank Redemption)主演蒂姆·罗宾斯(Tim Robbins)在剧中扮演（极其）倒霉的金融师安迪·杜弗伦(Andy Dufresne)，另一主演摩根·弗里曼(Morgan Freeman)扮演囚犯瑞德(Red)。尽管这部电影获得了七项奥斯卡提名，包括一项最佳影片奖，但在1994年首映之后，2500万美元的投资几乎没能赚回。但是后来影碟大卖，TNT电视台在似乎永无止境地播放此片（仅去年一年，在电视上的放映时长就有151小时），美国人爱上了屏幕上这部随时可见的片子。

But the film, based on a 1982 Stephen King short story, doesn’t just resonate because it’s always on. " ‘Shawshank’ flatters us while still residing in a real, powerful place," is how Will Leitch, who reviews movies for the sports site Deadspin, explains the story’s staying power. "We imagine ourselves as Andy Dufresne and want to believe we would be as strong as he was. Our daily struggles aren’t nearly as overpowering as his, but he still chooses to live, to survive — that feeling of needing to live that’s universal, and timeless."

该电影改编自史蒂芬·金(Stephen King)1982年的一篇短篇小说，可是，之所以能引起如此强烈的共鸣，并不仅仅是因为它总在播放。“看了《肖申克的救赎》，我们深感幸运，因为我们仍然生活于一个真实而有力的地方。'运动网(Deadspin)的电影评论作家威尔·雷奇(Will Leitch)如此解释这个故事为何如此强大。“我们把自己想像成安迪·杜弗伦，希望像他那样顽强。我们的日常斗争远远不如他那样难以承受，他却依然选择了活下去，逃出生天——求生的渴望就是这样普遍而永恒。'

All of this ardor helped boost the recent fortunes of Mansfield, Ashland and Upper Sandusky, Ohio, three towns that share 13 sites that appeared in the movie. (The Tappan Stove Company, Westinghouse and General Motors plants have all closed.)

这狂热的一切为俄亥俄州曼斯菲尔德、亚什兰和上桑达斯基带来了好运，因为本片有13个拍摄地位于这三个小镇（塔潘灶具公司、西屋电气和通用汽车厂都关闭了）。

Tourism has increased every year since "Shawshank" had its premiere; according to the Mansfield/Richland County Convention and Visitors Bureau, the movie brought in more than 18,000 visitors, and produced an estimated $3 million boost to the local economy in 2013. The enthusiasm is so intense that the bureau’s web page now directs drivers to each of the Andy and Red focal points in the form of the newly designated Shawshank Trail while also recommending all the Redemption I.P.A.s, Reformatory Red Wines, Jail House Javas and Shawshank Bundt Cakes they can purchase along the way.

自从《肖申克的救赎》公映之后，此地的旅游业逐年增长。根据曼斯菲尔德/里奇兰县会议和旅游管理局的统计，2013年，该电影为本地带来了18000多位游客和大约300万美元的经济增长。鉴于人们对此片的热爱如此强烈，如今，该旅游局的网页直接为司机指出去往安迪和瑞德自由之路的几个关键地点，最新设计了一条游览路线“肖申克之路'，推荐各种救赎相关产品，比如看守所红酒、牢房咖啡以及肖申克苹果酱蛋糕，一路上都可以买到。

里奇兰德县因其特征与地理位置，号称“俄亥俄的心脏'。但对于许多游客来说，它更为知名的身份恐怕是电影史上最传奇的监狱之乡。

(If one were so inclined, one could consume a Redemption Pizza Pie at Two Cousins’ Pizza, wash it down with a Prison Break Soda at Richland Carrousel Park and then eat a scene from the movie made out of chocolate at Squirrel’s Den, all within a block radius of one another in downtown Mansfield. )

如果你实在喜欢，可以在表兄弟比萨屋(Two Cousins’ Pizza)买一份救赎比萨派，在里奇兰旋转木马公园喝一杯越狱汽水，然后去松鼠窝餐厅(Squirrel’s Den)品尝一份由巧克力制成的剧中情景。这几家地方都位于曼斯菲尔德市中心，处于一个街区之内。

In May I went there to explore, enjoy and eat my way through the county that will celebrate the film’s 20th anniversary Aug. 29 to 31.

今年5月我曾去那里游览过，一路看景一路吃喝。8月29日至31日，这个县还举办了该电影公映20周年的庆祝活动。

"I saw who the real fans of that movie were," recalled Bob Gunton, the 68-year-old actor who portrayed the evil Warden Samuel Norton, after he paid a visit to the area last summer, "and the movie’s message really connected with them."

“我能看出谁是这部电影的真爱粉。'鲍勃·冈顿(Bob Gunton)回忆道。这位68岁的演员在剧中扮演邪恶的典狱长塞缪尔·诺顿(Samuel Norton)，去年夏天曾经来这里游览。他说：“真爱粉渴望触摸剧中的一切。'

The connection should be apparent on Labor Day weekend when the region will once again double as a town just outside Portland, Me., where an innocent man found freedom, his inmate pal found that "hope is a good thing" and the extremely corrupt head of the prison found , he ended up finding the business end of an office pistol — but that was a good thing for the prisoners.

这种渴望太明显了。尤其是在那个劳动节的周末，缅因州波特兰外的这个小镇就要承担另一重身份——因为就在这里，一个清白无辜的人重新发现了自由，他的狱友发现“希望是个好东西'，而极其腐败的典狱长发现——嗯，他发现办公室里那支手枪果真是自杀利器……但对于囚犯来说，这是件好事。

My first stop was near the entrance to Malabar Farm State Park in Lucas, Ohio, across from one very giving tree (the old oak that marked where Andy buried directions to guide Red toward his post-jailbreak home), while offering the type of scenery and sensibility that Norman Rockwell would just as soon live in as paint.

我那场旅程的第一步始于俄亥俄州卢卡斯马拉巴农庄州立公园大门附近，对面是一颗爱心树（在电影中，安迪在这棵橡树下埋了一封信，指引瑞德去往自己越狱之后的新家园），周围的风景和情调肯定会让诺曼·罗克韦尔（Norman Rockwell，美国画家——译注）一见倾心，立即定居此地。

"The terrain is so completely different south of Mansfield than it is north of the town," said Mr. Gunton who, as an avid biker, pedaled through much of the landscape when he wasn’t filming. "North is pretty flat, and in the south, there’s quite a bit of elevation. I would have a completely different experience depending on which area I’d ride."

“这是曼斯菲尔德南部，地形跟小镇北部截然不同。'冈顿先生说。他是个狂热的自行车运动爱好者，不拍电影的时候，他总是在这片美景中骑行。“北部相当平坦，而南部呢，海拔却有点儿高。两个地方骑车，是完全不同的感受。'

This 917-acre oasis that is Malabar Farm has been part of the Ohio State Parks system since 1972 and is best known for being the longtime home of the author Louis Bromfield, who won the 1927 Best Novel Pulitzer Prize for "Early Autumn." But for the purposes of my pilgrimage, it also happens to be across the street from Andy’s solitary oak, within a field that looked, as he told Red, "like something out of a Robert Frost poem."

这片方圆917英亩的绿洲就是马拉巴尔农庄，早在1972年就已经成为俄亥俄州立公园体系的一部分，最为知名的事迹就是作家路易斯·布罗姆菲尔德(Louis Bromfield)曾长期定居于此，并凭借作品《初秋》(Early Autumn)获得1927年的普利策最佳小说奖。但是，我在这场朝圣之旅中还发现一个巧合，它的街道对面恰好就是安迪那棵孤独的橡树，周围的田野正如安迪告诉瑞德的那样，“恍如来自罗伯特·弗罗斯特(Robert Frost)的诗篇'。

Because of a thunderstorm in 2011, the photo op is half the tree it used to be. The overall site (along with a cabin featured in the opening scene where Andy is about to confront his cheating wife with a loaded gun and an empty bottle) is still a nice enough visual, but the real gem is the adjoining park, with Bromfield’s 32-room Western Reserve-style home smack dab in the middle of it all.

由于2011年的一场雷暴，这棵大树只剩下一半，昔日之美已成绝版珍藏。这个地方（包括一座小屋，在电影开场中，安迪带着一支上膛的枪和一个空酒瓶来到这里，打算与红杏出墙的妻子对质）依然风景如画，但真正的珍宝是它毗邻的公园，里面有布罗姆菲尔德西部保留地风格的故居，共32间卧室，恰好位于整片景区的正中心。

The tour included everything from a pair of Grandma Moses paintings (a "thank you" present to Bromfield for writing an introduction to her 1947 autobiogrpahy, "Grandma Moses: American Primitive") to a walk-through of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall’s honeymoon suite (Mr. Bogart was a longtime friend of the author’s, and the couple had their 1945 wedding at his home).

作家故居之游包罗万象，比如观赏摩西奶奶（Grandma Moses，大器晚成的美国风俗画家，70多岁才开始绘画——译注）的两幅画，那是她送给布罗姆菲尔德的礼物，感谢他为自己1947年出版的自传《摩西奶奶：美国原住民》(Grandma Moses: American Primitive)作序。还可以在演员亨弗莱·鲍嘉(Humphrey Bogart)和劳伦·白考尔(Lauren Bacall)的蜜月套房里匆匆游览一番。鲍嘉是布罗姆菲尔德的多年好友，1945年，这对夫妇就是在这座庄园举行了婚礼。

"It was funny to go outside my door, while they were filming, and see a sheriff’s car there for security during the tree scene," said Sondra Hupp, a Malabar tour guide when she isn’t working at a local bird sanctuary. Ms. Hupp also lived next to the property where the director Frank Darabont shot the scene. "That was the first thing that came to my head, thinking there might have been a prison break" from the town’s correctional facility.

“很有意思。那天我走出房门，见他们正在拍橡树那场戏，还有一辆巡逻车在维护治安。'桑德拉·哈普(Sondra Hupp)说。她在本地的鸟类保护区工作，也在马拉巴尔农庄兼职当导游。导演弗兰克·达拉邦特(Frank Darabont)拍摄电影的地点就是哈普女士家的隔壁。“我脑子里冒出的第一个念头是，是不是有人越狱了，从镇上这座劳改营逃了出去？'

The Malabar Farm Restaurant, in an 1820 building within the park, has a reputation for its hamburgers (the restaurant uses beef from cattle raised next door). From there it was off to see the centerpiece of the Shawshank experience, the Ohio State Reformatory, which closed in 1990, four years before the site was immortalized on film.

马拉巴尔农庄餐厅位于公园内一座1820年的房屋内，因汉堡而远近闻名，该餐厅的牛肉由隔壁的养牛户供应。从那里望出去，我们可以看到肖申克传奇的中心标志物——俄亥俄州立看守所。它在1990年关闭，四年之后，又在电影中成为永恒。

"The O.S.R. had 80,000 visitors last year," said the president of the tourism bureau, Lee Tasseff. "The film went from saving it from the wrecking ball to becoming a tourism icon."

“俄亥俄州立看守所去年迎来了八万名游客，'旅游局局长李·塔瑟夫(Lee Tasseff)说。“这部电影救了它，把它从一片破旧楼房变成了旅游胜地。'

Keith Fischer, a volunteer guide, knows every inch of the 250,000-square-foot fortress, which opened in 1896 and is now a state landmark.

吉斯·费舍尔是一名义务导游，这座25万平方英尺堡垒的每一寸土地他都了如指掌。它1896年开始投入使用，而今已经是该州的地标。

"We’ve got a haunted prison tour happening tonight," Mr. Fischer said as we walked past walls of rusted-out cells. "Lots of amateur ghost hunters come here, due to the place’s past."

“我们今晚的监狱游会有鬼魂出没。'费舍尔先生说着，带我们走过一面面锈蚀的牢房墙壁。“由于这个地方有着独特的经历，好多业余捉鬼师都来了。'

Much of the film was shot on these grounds, and many of the props remain, including the sewage pipe Andy spent 19 years breaking into, and eventually crawled out of, to freedom.

这部电影的多数镜头都拍摄于此地，许多道具保留至今，包括安迪花费了十九年终于凿通并进入的那条下水道。爬过这条污浊的臭水河，他终于获得了自由。

Other nods to notable plot points within the facility include the other half of the storm-split oak tree propped outside the entrance, and Warden Norton’s office, complete with the safe where he discovered Andy’s nub of a rock hammer in a hollowed-out Bible. Last summer, a group of tourists was lucky enough to bump into the coldhearted disciplinarian himself.

此地还有其他几件标注电影情节点的物品：从雷劈中生还的另外半棵橡树而今探出了大门外；诺顿典狱长的办公室以及保险柜，他在柜里发现了一本中间挖空的圣经，装着安迪那把磨损严重的岩石锤。去年夏天，一群太过幸运的游客竟在这里偶遇了冷血典狱长本人。

"I was taking the tour," Mr. Gunton said, "and sat behind the desk right when about 60 people come into the very same room. Immediately the place was lit up with cellphone cameras.

“当时我正在游览，'冈顿先生说，“坐在办公桌前，这时大约有六十个人走进房间。顿时，拍照声四起，整个房间被手机闪光灯照得一片雪亮。'

"So I held an impromptu news conference," he said, "explaining how we shot various scenes, including the warden’s demise, while sitting in that seat, and the logistics that went through that."

“我就开了一个临时的新闻发布会。'他说，“解释我们当年怎样拍摄各种场景，包括典狱长是怎样坐在那个座位上死掉的，还有这里的后勤体系。'

The 118-year-old reformatory, which resembles the Tower of London, is still visited by ex-convicts. "About once a week we’ll get a former inmate in here," Mr. Fischer said as we made our way through the world’s largest free-standing steel cellblock. "They get some closure. And it gives them some new perspective. They always looked up at the tower. Now they can go up there and look down."

这座看守所有118年的历史，造型有点像伦敦塔，时至今日仍有昔日的囚徒陆续来访。“大概每周就有一个曾在这儿坐牢的人故地重游。'费舍尔先生说着，带我们穿过天下最大的独立钢铁牢房区。“他们被禁锢之后，获得了全新的视角。坐牢时他们总是仰望那座高塔，而现在，他们可以登上塔顶，向下俯视。'

The next day I drove 46 miles to Upper Sandusky, to pay a visit to the Shawshank Woodshop, the closest thing the area has to a full-on museum devoted to the movie. This was where Red and the rest of his crew heard Andy play Mozart’s "Marriage of Figaro" over the prison sound system and, as Red narrates, "It was like some beautiful bird flapped into our drab little cage and made those walls dissolve away, and for the briefest of moments, every last man in Shawshank felt free."

第二天我驱车46英里，到上桑达斯基，去了肖申克木器店，这片地区最像肖申克电影主题博物馆的地方就是它了。在这里，瑞德和狱友们聆听过安迪用监狱广播播放莫扎特的《费加罗的婚礼》，正如他描述的那样，“就像某种美丽的鸟儿扇动羽翼，飞入我们乏味的小笼子，牢房的铜墙铁壁纷纷消融，在极其迅忽的一个瞬间，肖申克监狱的每一个人都感受了自由的滋味。'

The owners of the wood shop, Bill and April Mullen, were smart enough to get in on the film tourism trade earlier than most. As a result, they’ve acquired more artifacts from the movie than can even be found at the reformatory: everything from the novelty prison trays Hollywood attendees used before the premiere at Mansfield’s gorgeous Renaissance Theater to the 1937 Ford bus that Andy arrived in with the rest of the "fresh fish."

这家木器店的主人比尔(Bill)和艾普罗·穆伦(April Mullen)十分聪明，他们抢先一步，开创了电影旅游经济。因此，他们得到的关于该电影的手工艺品比看守所收藏的更多：有一种新式牢房托盘，是该电影在曼斯菲尔德奢华的文艺复兴剧院首映之前出席好莱坞盛典的演员们使用过的；还有安迪和其他“鲜鱼'来到监狱时乘坐的那辆1937年的福特公交车，总之应有尽有。

"Morgan Freeman hasn’t said he won’t come in August," said Mr. Mullen, who became friends with the actor after meeting him in 2012 at the Ground Zero Blues Club, the Clarksdale, Miss., spot that Mr. Freeman co-owns. "We’re holding out hope." (A representative for Mr. Freeman said the event is currently not on the actor’s schedule.) Mr. Mullen said Mr. Robbins had also been contacted, but his publicist said he’d be out of the country.

“摩根·弗里曼没有说8月份不来。'穆伦先生说。2012年，他在密西西比州克拉克斯代尔零层布鲁斯俱乐部遇见弗里曼之后就成了朋友，弗里曼也是那家酒吧的老板之一。“我们不放弃希望。'（弗里曼先生的代表说，这项活动目前不在该演员的日程表中）。穆伦先生说，他也联系了罗宾斯先生，但他的经纪人说届时他会在国外。

"Tim was very soft-spoken, and we were all wondering how anyone was going to hear him on screen," said Bob Wachtman, a retired Upper Sandusky native and an extra in a scene filmed at the nearby Wyandot County Courthouse, as he walked through the wood shop with Mr. Mullen and me. "Once my shot was done, they never ordered me out of the building, so I just sat there and watched them film the whole day."

“蒂姆讲话非常温和，我们都很好奇，观众在屏幕前怎么能听到他的声音。'鲍勃·沃奇曼(Bob Wachtman)说着，陪我和穆伦先生一起穿过木器店。他是上桑达斯基本地人，已经退休，曾经在附近怀安多特县法院的一场戏中充当临时演员。“有一次，我的戏份拍完后，他们也没有命令我离开片场，我就坐那儿看他们拍戏，看了一整天。'

As Mr. Wachtman spoke in almost reverential tones about a small chapter in the town’s history that occurred two decades ago, I thought of the more recent moment when a reformatory guide told me of the fan weddings that the prison hosts and then added, almost as an afterthought, that he too would be getting hitched on the grounds the very next weekend.

沃奇曼先生用几近虔诚的声调讲述着二十年前小镇历史上的短章，我记起一个更近的时刻，那时，看守所一名导游告诉我，监狱会为该片的粉丝举办婚礼，想了一下他又说，他的婚礼就在下个周末，也将在这里举行。

Not everyone can schedule on-site nuptials (they start at $1,000), but there are always the souvenir T-shirts reading Property of Ohio State Reformatory. Those go for $15.

不是每个人都可以安排现场婚礼（起价1000美元），但写着“俄亥俄州立看守所资产'字样的纪念T恤一直有售。15美元一件。

IF YOU GO

若你到此一游

Where to Stay

住宿信息

Mansfield’s Quality Inn & Suites offers a Shawshank 20th Anniversary Package Aug. 29 to 30 with doubles for $128.66; suites, $139.96 (500 North Trimble Road, 419-529-1000; ).

8月29日至30日，曼斯菲尔德优质客栈与套房(Quality Inn & Suites；500 North Trimble Road，电话419-529-1000; )供应肖申克20周年特惠套餐，双人间128.66美元、套房139.66美元。

The Olde Stone House is a pre-Civil War but Wi-Fi-capable B & B on 10 acres just 10 minutes from downtown Mansfield; from $89 to $109 (291 Stewart Road North, 419-571-0013; ).

旧石屋(The Olde Stone House；291 Stewart Road North, 419-571-0013; )是美国内战前就开业的经济型旅馆，却有无线信号，提供床位和早餐，占地10英亩，距离曼斯菲尔德闹市区仅十分钟路程。

Where to Eat

餐饮信息

Martini’s on Main, in Mansfield, offers pizza made from scratch and gets most of its ingredients from local farms (108 North Main Street, 419-775-5936; ). Closed Sundays.

曼斯菲尔德的大道马提尼餐厅(Martini’s on Main)供应农家比萨饼，大部分食材来自本地农庄（108 North Main Street，电话419-775-5936; ）。周日歇业。

Rocky’s Pub & Grill (22 South Park Street, 419-522-1342; ) is a nearly 40-year-old Mansfield institution near the Carrousel District that offers up a great selection of steak, seafood and Scotch.

洛基酒吧与烤肉（Rocky’s Pub & Grill，22 South Park Street，电话419-522-1342; ）是曼斯菲尔德一家有近40年历史的老店，位于旋转木马区附近，供应非常美味的各种牛排、海鲜和苏格兰威士忌。

Reformatory Red Wine is available at the Cypress Hill Winery in Mansfield (37 East Fourth Street, 419-295-2124; ).

曼斯菲尔德的柏山酒厂(Cypress Hill Winery，37 East Fourth Street，电话419-295-2124; )出产看守所红酒(Reformatory Red Wine)。

What to Do

娱乐信息

A two-day bus tour (Aug. 29 and 30) takes visitors to the 13 film locations at $139 per ticket ().

巴士二日游（8月29日及30日）带游客游览片中的13个拍摄地，票价139美元 ()。

A ’40s-’50s-themed cocktail party will be held at the Ohio State Reformatory starting at 7:30 p.m. on Aug. 30. The $50 ticket includes hors d’oeuvres, reformatory tours and a live jazz band ().

8月30日晚7:30，俄亥俄州立看守所将举办一场四五十年代主题的鸡尾酒派对。票价50美元，含餐前点心、看守所游览与现场爵士乐演出()。