探秘:乌克兰前总统私人豪宅

On the first warm Spring day in Ukraine on Friday, hundReds of Kiev residents headed to the capital's loveliest spot to soak up the sun: A sprawling park-like estate, with manicured gardens, and a tennis court, bowling alley, and yachting marina. Until a few weeks ago, Ukrainians did not even know this place existed. Certainly, they would have faced immediate arrest had they dared venture through the tall, gold-trimmed gates. Now, the area is one of Ukraine's most visited sites, a living museum to a world that has suddenly, unexpectedly vanished, leaving an uncertain future in its place.

上周五，乌克兰首都基辅迎来今年第一个温暖的春日。数百位基辅居民不约而同地前往首都最美丽的一处所在，在那里沐浴阳光。这是一座气势恢宏，犹如公园般的庄园，里面不仅有修剪整齐的花园，网球场，保龄球馆，甚至还有一座游艇码头。就在几个星期前，乌克兰人甚至还不知道这个地方的存在。当然，要是他们胆敢闯入高大威严、配有金边的大门，他们马上就会面临被逮捕的风险。现在，这块区域俨然已是乌克兰参观人数最多的景点之一。作为一座活生生的博物馆，它记录的那个世界已经在不经意间荡然无存，留在身后的是一个不确定的未来。

Welcome to the home of ousted president Viktor Yanukovych.

欢迎光临前总统维克托•亚努科维奇的官邸。

Hours after former Ukrainian president Viktor Yanukovych fled for his life to Russia on February 22, activists raced to the village of Novi Petrivci, outside Kiev, where Ukraine's presidential residence has for years sat on the banks of the Dnipro River.

2月22日，乌克兰前总统维克托•亚努科维奇匆匆逃往俄罗斯数小时后，一群激进分子冲入基辅郊外的Novi Petrivci村。乌克兰的总统官邸多年来一直坐落在流淌过这个村庄的第聂伯河河畔。

What they found behind the high walls astonished them. The old official residence was dwarfed by a new, five-story, wood-sided mansion, which the president had commissioned for himself and his young mistress around 2011, at a time when Ukraine was deep in debt, and trying to dig itself out from the global recession.

高墙后的发现让他们惊愕万分。那栋旧官邸的气势完全被一栋簇新的五层木面豪宅遮掩住了，这栋豪宅是前总统在2011年左右专门为他和年轻的情妇建造的。彼时的乌克兰债台高筑，正在竭力摆脱全球经济衰退的阴影。

Outside, the manicured grounds contain graceful bridges, a full-sized pirate ship, a greenhouse, and a zoo filled with rare birds and ostriches. So secret was the area that the airspace above was closed to planes until February 22. Security cameras embedded in the gardens helped to ensure that no staff member snapped evidence of the president's wealth -- money that was largely siphoned off from public coffers, according to Ukraine's new government.

豪宅外处处是修剪整齐的草坪。精致的小桥旁矗立着一艘全尺寸的海盗船，不远处还有一个温室和一个满是各种珍稀鸟类和鸵鸟的动物园。这块区域非常神秘，直至2月22日，它的上空还是禁飞区。花园里装备了多部安保摄像机，用以确保工作人员没有拍下彰显总统财富的证据——乌克兰新政府声称，这些钱基本上都来自国库。

But the truly jaw-dropping opulence is off-limits to regular Ukrainians, who have descended on the estate during the past two weeks: Inside Yanukovych's private mansion. Filled with priceless objects, the house is locked, and young activists—who until last month were demonstrating on Kiev's Independence Square -- stand guard outside.

但真正令人瞠目结舌的奢华是过去两周来造访这栋豪宅的乌克兰老百姓无缘领略的——亚努科维奇的私人豪宅内部现在已是游客禁地。这栋房屋被上锁了，上个月还在基辅独立广场示威的年轻人站立在门外，用心看护着屋内琳琅满目的无价之宝。

On Friday morning, Fortune was treated to an in-depth tour of the private quarters, offering a window into the incalculable luxury Ukraine's leader enjoyed. "France has the Versailles castle, and I would like this to be like that," says Julia Mykytenko, 18, a language student who is one of the activists currently living in the house -- sleeping in the antique carved beds and showering with solid-gold bathroom fittings -- in order to safeguard it from looters. As she guided me through the marble hallways and up a series of intricately carved staircases, she said, "Many of us think this should remain as a museum of corruption."

上周五早上，《财富》记者获准进入这栋私人城堡，好好地窥视了一番乌克兰前领导人令人难以想象的奢华生活。“我想法国的凡尔赛宫顶多也就是这样子吧，”18岁的朱莉娅•米基坚科说。为了保护这栋房屋免遭掠夺，这位学语言的女生目前跟其他几位激进分子住在屋内——他们睡在古色古香的雕花床上，用纯金打造的浴室设备洗澡。她一边引领我穿过大理石走廊，登上精雕细刻的楼梯，一边说：“我们很多人认为应该保留这里的一切，把它作为一个贪腐博物馆。”

As a museum, the house is hard to beat. A vast crystal chandelier (one of many) hangs over a hangar-sized living room, where a white Steinway baby grand overlooks overlooking the gardens. Amid the mountain of documents uncovered in the house were certificates of authenticity for silver daggers and a solid-gold Smith & Wesson .38-cal. handgun, encrusted with 5.1-carat white diamonds. A large bar is stocked with fine French wines. And the mansion's 3-D cinema has Surround-sound, massage chairs, and a small collection of Hollywood hits on DVD, including Shawshank Redemption and Alice in Wonderland.

这栋房屋完全配得上博物馆的称谓。一个庞大的水晶吊灯（众多水晶吊灯之一）悬挂在一个飞机库般大小的客厅之上。客厅中一处可俯瞰花园的位置摆放着一架白色的斯坦韦牌卧式钢琴。在屋内堆积如山的文件中，活动人士发现了数枚银质匕首和一把镶有5.1克拉白色钻石、纯金打造的.38口径史密斯韦森手枪的防伪证明书。走进一个大型酒吧，映入眼帘的是各种法国美酒，令人应接不暇。这栋豪宅的3D影院配有环绕音效系统和按摩椅，还收藏了一些好莱坞大片的DVD影碟，其中包括《肖申克的救赎》(Shawshank Redemption)和《爱丽丝漫游奇遇记》(Alice in Wonderland)。

Such discoveries of leaders' spectacular opulence are hardly unique in recent history; in fact, they've become sadly familiar. When Saddam Hussein's regime collapsed in Iraq in 2003, palaces and mansions revealed similar splashes of gold and marble, with similarly vast jewelry collection and (weirdly) private zoos. Ditto after the collapse of the dictatorships in Libya, Tunisia and Egypt in 2011.

在近代史上，一国领导人蔚为壮观的财富王国突然大白于天下，这种事并不稀罕；非常可悲的是，这一幕其实屡见不鲜。萨达姆•侯赛因政权于2003年垮台后，呈现在世人面前的同样是金玉满堂，珠宝成堆，建有私人动物园的宫殿和豪宅。2011年，利比亚、突尼斯和埃及的独裁政权相继崩溃后，人们看到了同样的景象。

But Ukrainians say they want to preserve, rather than destroy. While Moammar Gaddafi's compound in Tripoli was burnt to the ground, and Saddam's palaces were heavily looted, Ukraine's young activists have painstakingly catalogued every item, as though they were taking inventory in a supermarket. Unlike the enraged burning and looting after the Arab revolutions, Ukrainian activists seem determined to preserve the past as a cautionary tale for future leaders.

但乌克兰人说，他们希望把这一切保留下来，而不是摧毁掉。卡扎菲在的黎波里的豪宅被烧为平地，萨达姆的宫殿几乎被洗劫一空，但乌克兰的年轻人却不辞辛苦地把每一件物品编入目录，似乎是在盘点一家超市的商品。与阿拉伯革命后暴怒之下的焚烧和抢掠不同，乌克兰的激进分子似乎决心把过去保存下来，作为一个给予未来领导人的警示。

In the grand lobby of Yanukovych's mansion, next to full-sized knights in silver armor, Mykytenko and her friends have placed valuable items behind a cordon of Scotch tape. They include a huge carved elephant tusk, and a gold Bible case inlaid with enamel. "There were other people guarding this place who drank a lot of the wine, so we had to get them out," Mykytenko says, adding that she had "culture shock" when she first entered the house. "I'd been in the Hermitage Museum [in St. Petersburg, Russia] where I couldn't touch anything. Here, I could touch everything."

在亚努科维奇豪宅的宏伟大堂旁边，矗立着几尊身着银色铠甲的全尺寸骑士。米基坚科和她的朋友已经拉起了一道警戒线，围住了所有贵重物品，其中包括一件巨大的象牙雕刻和一个纯金打造，镶嵌着珐琅的圣经盒。米基坚科说：“前段时间守护这个地方的那几个人整天醉醺醺的，所以我们不得不把他们赶了出去。”她还对我说，第一次进入这栋房屋时，她感受到了一股强烈的“文化冲击”。“我参观过俄罗斯圣彼得堡的冬宫博物馆(Hermitage Museum)，在那里我什么都不能碰。在这里，我可以触摸一切东西。”

Yet despite the determination of the young activists to preserve Yanukovych's property, its fate is uncertain. Much of the documents and items are needed for evidence in corruption trials being brought against Yanukovych and major figures in his government. On Friday, military prosecutors and government officials arrived to tour the grounds, and to discuss how to beef up the security and whether to close the area to the public. One prosecutor entered the house to snap photos on his iPhone. "Unbelievable," he said. "People don't have money for operations for their kids, and our president lived this way. It is too much."

然而，尽管这些年轻人下定了保全这些财产的决心，但它的命运依然不确定。亚努科维奇及其政府的重要人物正面临腐败指控，屋内的许多文件和物品都需要作为呈堂证据。上周五，几位军事检察官和政府官员赶来这里参观，同时商讨了加强安保、是否关闭这片区域，不再向公众开放等问题。一位检察官走进屋内，用他的iPhone手机拍摄了几张照片。“难以置信，”他说。“老百姓连孩子的手术费都掏不起，而我们的总统竟然过着这样的生活。太过分了。”

Still, the activists guarding the mansion say they remain uncertain over what Ukraine's new leaders should do with the property. "There are two opinions," says Arthur Pereverziev, 24, who works an interpreter at the state-run TV channel, and at a rental-car agency, when he is not guarding the house and sleeping inside it. "Some of us think the items should be sold, and the money should go to compensating the victims of Maidan," or Independence Square, where snipers killed about 80 protesters in last month's bloody climax of the uprising. Pale and lean, Pereverziev was dressed in full combat fatigues, but says he has no military training; like many young activists, he acquired his uniform from the self-proclaimed self-defense units in Kiev's Independence Square during the demonstrations.

不过，几位守卫豪宅的激进人士说，他们依然拿不准乌克兰新领导人到底应该怎样处置这些财产。“目前有两种意见，”24岁的亚瑟•佩雷韦尔佐夫说。他是一家国营电视台的口译员，同时在一家汽车租赁公司兼职。守卫房屋时，他晚上就睡在屋内。“有些人认为应该卖掉这些东西，用出售所得补偿独立广场的受害者。”在上个月的流血暴动中，有大约80位示威者死于狙击手枪下。脸色苍白，身材清瘦的佩雷韦尔佐夫全副武装，俨然一副军人模样，但他说自己并没有接受过军事训练；像许多年轻的激进分子一样，他的这套装备是上个月在基辅独立广场示威期间从一队自称自卫的军人手中获得的。

If prosecutors opt to close the area to the public, there are likely to be many disappointed Ukrainians.

如果检察官选择关闭这块区域，许多乌克兰人很可能会非常失望。

Two weeks after Yanukovych's downfall, the area has assumed an almost festive air. On the road leading up to the gates, enterprising Ukrainians have set up food stalls selling drinks and barbecue sausages. You can even rent mountain bikes, in order to cycle around the acres of land. It is worth the ride. On one part of the grounds, Yanukovych had placed an ancient Greek temple, whose provenance is unknown. And in another, there is a small chapel, with old, stained glass windows and carved wooden pews.

亚努科维奇倒台两个星期后，这片区域已经呈现出一派几乎类似于节日的喜庆气氛。在通往豪宅大门的道路上，一些颇具生意头脑的乌克兰人搭起了贩卖饮料和烤香肠的摊位。游客甚至可以租一辆山地自行车，环绕这片土地转上一圈。这个地方的确值得一游。大家会在沿途看到一座不知道亚努科维奇从哪里搞来的古希腊神庙。还有一个小教堂，教堂内的旧染色玻璃窗和雕花的木制长椅显得别有情致。